Author: Etienne Steenkamp

Passionate about the outdoors, wildlife, travel and photography
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Okavango Photography Safari: Looking for Painted Wolves and finding so much more. Day 1, Gqeberha to Pom Pom

This trip was almost two years in the planning. We first met Grant Atkinson at Pangolin Photo Safaris in Chobe in October 2022. In our conversations, I mentioned that I would like to photograph African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus). His response was that the best place to do this, would be the private concessions in the Okavango region of Botswana. Almost a year later, and after a visit to Kruger National Park, where I was fortunate to see and photograph these magnificent animals twice, but in less than optimal circumstances for photography, I contacted Grant again. We started organising this trip with the help of Joanne from Biggestleaf Travel.

A lot of effort went into planning the trip in such a way that we had the best chance of finding the Wild Dogs, while keeping it somewhat affordable. We eventually decided on three Kwando camps: Pom Pom, Splash and Four Rivers.

At last the time arrived and we were on our way, taking an early flight from Gqeberha to Johannesburg, where we met Grant at the airport. From here we flew to Maun in Botswana, where we transferred to a 6 seater plane, piloted by a charming young lady, Ruby, for our short flight to Pom Pom.

At Pom Pom we were met by our guide, Ryder and tracker, Zuma and taken to camp. After settling in to our rooms and a quick snack, we were out on our first game drive. We started with a little warm-up at a pool filled with hippo’s, who were quite active.

A lioness, initially lying on short grass and then getting up and walking towards us, gave me my first opportunity to try out the technique of low angle photography, lowering the camera from the vehicle with a monopod and using a remote shutter release, both of which I had purchased on Grant’s advice, during the planning stage of the trip.

As the sun was setting, we encountered a Cheetah in the long grass, a difficult photo to take in low light.

The end of our first day, brought the first magnificent sunset.

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Flowers, Stars & More: The missing videos

So, at last, after a hectic few days back at home, Liana managed to get around to editing her videos, so here are the videos for Day 5, Day 6 and a lovely video she made using my astro photos from this and previous trips.

Day 5 blog post here

And the video for Day 5:

Day 6 blog post here

And the video for Day 6:

And the astrophotography video:

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Flowers, Stars & More: Maps and info

Following a few requests for more detailed information about our trip, I have decided to put together some details with links for routes on Google Maps, so no photos or videos in this post, but suggestions for an itinerary which will show you some of the most beautiful parts of our country, especially if you do it in flower season, which is usually sometime between mid August and early October.

Please click on underlined text to follow the relevant links.

The resources we used in planning the trip were Google searches, Google maps, SANParks website, Booking.com and Mountain Passes South Africa website

Day 1: Summerstrand to Lentelus Farmstay, Barrydale, via Steytlerville :

Blog post and photos for Day 1 here

In Steytlerville, visit The Verandah Coffee Shop and Pegasus Early Motoring Museum

Barrydale is an interesting town, which we will definitely explore in more depth in future. For now, Lentelus Farmstay, approximately 10 km outside Barrydale, was a comfortable overnight stop.

Day 2: Lentelus Farmstay to Orca House, Yzerfontein, via Bainskloof Pass and Postberg section of the West Coast National Park.

Blog post and photos for Day 2 here

Bainskloof Pass is a lovely drive for those who enjoy mountain passes and history and has been declared a National Monument.

Postberg section of the West Coast National Park is only open during flower season, but the rest of the Park is open all year round. Plan to spend around 3 hours in Postberg.

Orca House offers magnificent accommodation right on the beach, is well appointed and very comfortable. Enjoy the sunset on a dune with a glass of wine in hand.

Day 3: Orca House Yzerfontein to Dogstone Cottage, Hondeklipbaai with a detour to Maskam Guest Farm

Blog post and photos for Day 3 here

Quite a few areas of gravel road, some better than others, in this stretch. We were also warned not to take the Hondeklipbaai turn off from the N7 just after Garies, but continue to the Klipfontein turn which is tarred to about halfway to Hondeklipbaai.

Along the way, a detour to Maskam Guest Farm for flower viewing and a light lunch, is quite worthwhile.

Dogstone Cottage offers lovely accommodation in Hondeklipbaai, but one must be aware that this is a very far off the beaten track little town or perhaps rather settlement, at first glance looking somewhat run down, with no fuel available (so fill up in Garies), the shops only stocking basics, the tap water a bit brackish (so take own drinking water), but probably two of the best and most affordable seafood restaurants in South Africa. Rooi Spinnekop was our favourite, but absolutely nothing wrong either with Dop en Kreef and I would suggest everyone should try both and determine their own favourite.

Day 4: Dogstone cottage Hondeklipbaai to Skilpad section of Namaqua National Park and back

Blog post and photos for Day 4 here

Google maps or your GPS will show you a shorter route, but the locals in Hondeklipbaai warned us that some of the routes in the region carried virtually no traffic and that getting stuck on those could result in a day or two’s wait for help. If traveling alone, it is therefor recommended to stick to the more frequented roads. For that reason, we took the road back via Klipfontein to the N7 and on to Kamieskroon and then to Skilpad. At Skilpad there are short hiking routes, which we did not explore due to the rain, as well as two short circle routes which can be driven. One of these is labeled 4×4 only, but in fact can easily be driven with a high ground clearance vehicle without 4×4 capability.

Day 5: Hondeklipbaai to Clanwilliam, with a detour to Graafwater

Blog post and photos for Day 5 here

A visit to Ramskop Nature Garden in Clanwilliam is quite a treat. This apparently used to be magnificent, became quite run down under municipal management, but enthusiastic locals are busy restoring it to its previous magnificence.

Day 6: Clanwilliam – Biedouw Valley – Wupperthal – Eselbank – Mount Ceder

Blog post and photos for Days 6 and 7 here

Biedouw Valley is famous for its flowers. Unfortunately we visited on a cold, rainy day and did not see it in its full glory, but from what we saw, certainly on our list of places to return to.

Do not be fooled by Google Maps telling you this is only 2h47min drive. Eselbank pass, which is supposedly a 4×4 route, although the locals apparently drive there with their Nissan NP200’s, will slow you down and at one point your GPS will start adding on two minutes to your ETA for every one minute you drive. But it is completely worth it for the amazing scenery.

Mount Ceder offers a range of accommodation options. We stayed in a lovely self catering Villa overlooking the valley, a great spot for astro photography, if only the clouds would have allowed.

Day 7: Mount Ceder to Cape Town

Some more lovely mountain passes along this route, but we drove it in pouring rain and howling wind, would like to go back there in better conditions, for photography.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 6 & 7: Mountain Passes, Rugged terrain and Severe Weather

After a large breakfast at A State of Grace guesthouse in Clanwilliam, we started our trip by filling up with diesel and then proceeded via Pakhuis pass and Hoek se Berg pass to the Biedouw valley

On a very cold and overcast day, the flowers were not open, but still provided a spectacular sight. I can just imagine how much more spectacular it must be on a sunny day with the flowers open.

We were too early to get coffee at the Biedouw Valley Farmstall, which only opens at 11:00 and decided instead, to proceed over the Kouberg Pass to Wupperthal for coffee at Lekkerbekkie Coffee Shop.

Since some social media posts had suggested that the Eselbank Pass might be closed due to recent flooding, we enquired in Wupperthal and were assured that the pass was open to 4×4 traffic. We decided to tackle this pass on our way to Mount Ceder. Although very narrow and certainly a major challenge if encountering traffic going in the other direction, this pass is actually not difficult to drive and does not require serious 4×4 skills, mainly just some common sense. Luckily we only encountered one other vehicle and even more luckily, this happened in a place where there was space for passing. The reward was spectacular scenery, better captured on video than photos (video to follow in a separate post).

A visit to the waterfall at Eselbank was a bit of a failure, since we could not find an actual viewpoint of the main waterfall and were unwilling to clamber over the rocks and risk a serious fall, especially in the windy conditions. After passing through Eselbank, we proceeded towards Mount Ceder passing through more ruggedly beautiful terrain in the Cederberg, including Grootrivier hoogte, stopping along the way to photograph some more flowers.

Google maps will tell you that the drive is 123km and should take approximately 2 hour 15 minutes, but that doesn’t take into account the terrain and roads. A more realistic estimate is probably about 4 hours for that distance.

We had a lovely cottage at Mount Ceder, overlooking a valley. Unfortunately it was overcast and my planned astrophotography didn’t materialise. The positive aspect was that we got a very good night’s sleep.

At breakfast the next morning, the staff at Mount Ceder, informed us that they expected severe weather over the next 24 hours, our planned hike in the mountains was cancelled and we were warned that anticipated flooding could see us stuck and unable to travel the next morning. We made a quick decision to change our plans, leave while we could and use the spare day for an impromptu visit to our children in Cape Town.

Returning to our cottage to pack up, we saw a beautiful rainbow over the valley, ending at our cottage.

After a very informative and interesting olive oil tasting, we had a cheese and olive platter for early lunch and then hit the road. Light rain already started falling while we were on the Blinkberg Pass.

As we reached the tar road, we started encountering the first of the severe weather. On the beautiful Gydo Pass, near Ceres, the rain was bucketing down.

Michells Pass was equally rain drenched

Arriving in Cape Town, we were again reminded of the Cape Town traffic, one of the major reasons we could not imagine living there again.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 5: Southward

We made an early start from Hondeklipbaai, driving on a dirt road still muddy and slippery from the previous day’s rain, stopping in Garies at the Garies Toeriste Stal, for coffee and toasted sandwiches, before heading on to Clanwilliam.

Arriving in Clanwilliam, we went for a stroll in the Ramskop Wildflower Garden. This had apparently become quite run down under Municipal management, but is being revived by local enthusiasts. We spent an enjoyable hour walking around here, taking some photos and video.

Then it was on to Graafwater, where we had a thoroughly enjoyable visit and lunch with friends.

Carrying on with my theme of photographing church buildings, I walked around the church, looking for a good angle for a photo, eventually finding one with a sunburst.

Late afternoon, we returned to Clanwilliam to check in at our accommodation, where we were just in time to see the beautiful sunset over Clanwilliam dam, from the guesthouse pool deck.

After dark, we returned to Graafwater, to continue where we left off our visit with friends and to photograph the Milky Way over the church.

Returning to Clanwilliam, I just had to take another Milky Way shot over the Clanwilliam dam, even though a few clouds were starting to appear.

Another late night, this time with Liana deciding to postpone her video downloading and editing for a day in order to get some rest.

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Flowers, Stars and More: Day 4: Stars, at last

Day 4 arrived, cold, dreary, overcast, not what we had been hoping for, but true to the weather forecast, which had been accurate for once. We decided, nonetheless, to take the drive to the Skilpad section of Namaqua National Park. The locals in Hondeklipbaai advised us to take the detour, returning to the N7 the way we had come, due to road conditions.

We stopped in Kamieskroon to get fuel for the car and ourselves. Entering Kamieskroon, we saw a beautiful little church.

In Kamieskroon, I also saw a street carrying my name, but quite sure not named after me or any relation.

After fuelling the car, we drove towards the National Park, stopping along the way for breakfast at Die Murasie

Once in the Park, we decided to forego the planned hike, since it had started raining and we did not want to get drenched. Instead, we drove the two circle routes in the Park, one of which is new and labelled a 4×4 route, but really a very easily driveable route.

As expected, in the rain, most of the flowers were hiding their faces. However, this did not really detract too much from the spectacle and we still had a really good time.

Near the end of the 4×4 loop, we saw a few Springbok in a field of flowers, a very special sight.

Making our way back to Hondeklipbaai, we were quite pleased with ourselves about the lovely day we had and the fact that we would be able to get to bed early, but this was not to be. About 20km before our destination, we encountered a quartet of elderly people struggling to change a flat tyre. By the time we had finished assisting them, not only were we rain drenched, which we had avoided in the Park, but also covered in mud.

Eventually arriving at out accommodation at Dogstone Cottage, we took a quick shower and then went to the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant for an early supper, which turned out to be an excellent choice. The reception was very friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the food excellent. Liana had a marrow bone starter and I had prawns. For mains she had lobster and I had pan fried snoek and sweet potato.

Exiting the restaurant, we were just in time to catch the sunset, the clouds starting to clear.

With the clouds rapidly clearing, I was able to grab a few Milky Way photos as well.

Tomorrow we turn back south, heading towards Clanwilliam.

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Flowers, Stars & More : Day 3 : Going North

Leaving Yzerfontein, we made a quick stop at Weskus Padstal to fill our travel mugs with good coffee. The breakfast smells were tempting, but we had “padkos” of cheese and tomato sandwiches and “braaiwors” in the car, so resisted the temptation.

We headed north along the coast, passing through Velddrif and Dwarskersbos, turning inland at Elandsbaai, towards Graafwater. Unfortunately, driving into the sun, combined with the number of insects committing suicide against the windscreen, resulted in less than perfect dashcam footage.

Just before Graafwater, Liana pointed out a somewhat rundown house, surrounded by wildflowers, stating that I am always looking for suitable focus point in my photos and this might make a good subject.

From Graafwater, a dirt road took us back towards the N7, with a quick stop to photograph a railway line.

Then it was on to Maskam Guest Farm outside Vanrhynsdorp, where we were able to explore their flower route and grab a toasted sandwich and Coke for a light lunch.

Interestingly, some of the flowers at Maskam Guest Farm appear to be planted in rows, the result of the flowers spontaneously growing in a rooibos tea plantation, between the rows of rooibos tea plants.

From here it was back to theN7, past Vanrhynsdorp, along the Knersvlakte, apparently so named due to the sound the oxwagens’ wheels made on the stones, past Garies, where we turned back towards the coast.

The number and variety of flowers along the way were truly impressive.

Approaching Hondeklipbaai, we suddenly encountered dark clouds, arriving in town in midwinter after having spent the day in bright sunshine and summery temperatures.

Our accommodation at Dogstone Cottage was very welcoming. Dinner was an excellent seafood platter at Dop en Kreef restaurant.

We ended the day, hoping that the weather would play along on Day 4 and allow us to see the impressive flowers in the Skilpad section of the Namaqua National Park.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 2: Mostly flowers

We had a slightly delayed start to the day, having to wait for the bakkie’s windscreen to get de-iced before we could hit the road. The first town we passed trough, Montagu, still seemed fast asleep at almost 8 o’clock in the morning and we had to wait until we reached Robertson before we could get coffee and breakfast. On the way to Robertson we passed through the beautiful Cogmanskloof.

No food photos today since I made the mistake of sitting on the wrong side of the table, resulting in poor light for food photography, or any photography for that matter. This is a pity, since the coffee and croissants at Strictly Coffee were excellent and we received service with a smile.

After breakfast, on the way to Worcester, we noticed snow on the Matroosberg.

After Worcester, we took a detour in order to drive along the famous Bainskloof Pass, built by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1853 and more recently declared a national monument. Our bakkie is fortunately low enough to pass under Dacre’s pulpit, where many a large truck has gotten stuck after ignoring all the warnings along the way. And no, we didn’t see any leopards, despite the promise on the road signs.

Passing through Wellington, Malmesbury and Darling, we reached the West Coast National Park in good time and were soon fascinated by the magnificent flower display in the Postberg section, which is only open for two months a year, during flower season.

The flowers really speak for themselves, no words required.

Satisfied, but exhausted, we arrived at Orca House in Yzerfontein, where we received a friendly reception from Francois. We soon had a fire lit for a braai and then relaxed on the dune in front of the house, overlooking the sea, with a glass of wine in hand.

After dinner, it was once again time to download and edit photos and video and prepare our camera equipment for the next day.

Look at the great daschcam footage of the day, ably curated by Liana to create a lovely memory of the day.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 1: Roadtripping Gqeberha to Lentelus farmstay

The day started badly, requiring a stop at the local Toyota garage to get the Hilux’s spare wheel unstuck, a problem discovered the previous evening, when wanting to check that the spare was properly inflated. After nearly 40 minute delay, we got going, only to get stuck behind an extra heavy vehicle, transporting a blade for a wind power generator.

After eventually being let past, we got to Steytlerville, anticipating brunch at The Verandah Coffee Shop, combined with a visit to the motor museum, only to find a closed door with no reaction when we rang the bell. We went on to the Royal Hotel, for a very late brunch or rather early lunch.

After being assured that there was always someone at the motor museum, we returned there and, upon searching around the back, found Michelle, who said she was short staffed due to her husband feeling ill, therefor having to run the restaurant and museum alone for the day. She gave us an informative tour of the museum and also informed us about their wildlife rehabilitation program. The highlight of the museum is the beautifully restored Ford GT 40.

From here, we proceeded past Willowmore to Oudtshoorn, stopping at De Rust for diesel and coffee. A surprise at the Caltex garage, was an artwork by Freek Steenberg, who uses wood and other natural materials, collected from the fields on and around his farm, for his art.

The scenery through the Klein Karoo is always special, but on this trip made even more so by the rain clouds gathering and sun highlights.

A quick stop at De Hoop, to photograph the beautiful church, built in 1909 and currently apparently for sale. I have often, driving past, promised myself that, one day, I would stop to photograph it and this seemed like a good day to fulfill that promise.

Arriving at Lentelus farmstay, we quickly unpacked and had supper, before downloading and editing the day’s photos and video.

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Late afternoon at Cape Recife Lighthouse and Blue Supermoon

On 19 August 2024 we had a blue moon and supermoon occuring simultaneously, normally a rare occurrence, but this the second within a 12 month period.

A supermoon occurs when the full moon is closer than usual to earth, resulting in the moon appearing larger than normal.

A blue moon can be either a second full moon within a calendar month or the third of four full moons in a given season, since there are normally only three full moons in a season.

Since moon rise would be occurring within minutes of sunset, I decided that this would be a good occasion to visit Cape Recife Lighthouse for a few photos.

The sunset was beautiful and I managed to get a sunburst photo over the lighthouse, while a few African Black Oystercatchers were enjoying the last light on the beach.

Soon the moon started rising over the sea.

With the sky still tinted pink and orange, the moon completed the picture beautifully.

As darkness set in, the moon appeared progressively brighter.

Finally, all that was visible, was the supermoon.