Category: Road tripping

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Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 4

Links here to Part 1 , Part 2 and Part 3 or our trip.

We departed the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park via Helskloof Pass. Although not particularly technical, the pass proved to be hard driving, largely because of the poor condition of the road surface. Turning south, we chose the route via Lekkersing, which was generally in good condition, apart from a short stretch near Lekkersing that was badly corrugated. Along the way, I was pleased to have another opportunity to indulge my fascination with the ruins that punctuate this remote landscape.

By the time we reached our campsite at Modderfontein, just outside Springbok, we were thoroughly exhausted and had little energy left to explore the local attractions. We had also been forewarned that the wildflower season was particularly poor this year, so there seemed little reason to venture further afield.

The following morning, we said goodbye to our friends, who had travelled with us up to this point, and continued south towards Kraalbaai in the West Coast National Park, hoping that we might still find a few flowers in bloom. Late that afternoon, we boarded our houseboat under beautiful sunny skies. It was a very different story the following morning, however, when we awoke to find ourselves completely enveloped in thick fog.

Without the warmth of the sun, the few flowers we encountered in the Park remained tightly closed, refusing to show us their faces.

Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed our time on the houseboat at Kraalbaai, and, despite the less-than-ideal weather, I at least managed to fit in two swimming sessions.

Rather than taking the direct route home, we made a long detour along the Karoo Highland Route, passing through Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia and Williston, and spending a night in Oudam Cottage at Konka Guest Farm outside Carnarvon. The detour was partly to explore an area that was new to us and partly to avoid having to make a separate trip to Douglas to collect a Border Collie puppy. Our brief introduction to this fascinating region has certainly left us wanting to return and explore it in greater detail.

After collecting our new puppy, Fudge, we finally turned for home, spending a pleasant last night of our journey at Sweetfontein Farm Lodge outside Britstown.

Ironically, the Karoo surprised us with more flowers than we had seen anywhere in Namaqualand or along the West Coast.

And so, after 16 days and 4,675 km, our journey finally came to an end. It had been a trip of contrasts, shared with good companions, and we returned home with a wealth of memories, photographs and stories to tell.

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Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 3

Link to Part 1

Link to Part 2

From Hondeklipbaai, we proceeded north via Koingnaas, Kleinsee and Port Nolloth, to Sendelingsdrift, on the South African side of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. This is harsh yet remarkably beautiful landscape, with a mixture of some good and some really bad gravel roads and a few sections of surprisingly good tar road.

After our first night in the Richtersveld, spent camping at Potjiespram, where goats and monkeys shared our campsite, we set off for Kokerboomkloof. The journey took us through some of the most spectacular desert scenery, with the stark and rugged landscape unfolding around us as we made our way to the campsite.

I had been looking forward to the opportunity to do some landscape astrophotography at Kokerboomkloof for a long time, so I was understandably disappointed to arrive to heavily overcast skies. Fortunately, as the evening progressed, gaps gradually began to appear in the cloud cover, offering glimpses of the night sky. Eventually, I was able to capture a few really rewarding images.

The next morning, having had very little sleep after my nocturnal photographic activities, it was time to pack up and continue to Tatasberg. There, we settled into log cabins that felt like five-star luxury after the rugged and very basic campsites of the previous two nights.

Although it was still spring, the heat in the Richtersveld was already becoming quite oppressive, and we greatly enjoyed the opportunity to cool off with a swim in the Orange River at Tatasberg. My main photographic objective here was to capture a panoramic image of the Milky Way stretching over the river. I eventually succeeded, although the experience taught me several valuable lessons, and I believe I can further improve on the result if I get another opportunity.

The Richtersveld remains, in my mind, one of the most magical places I have ever visited. Its incredible natural beauty lies in the starkness of the landscape, and in the extraordinary contrast between the arid desert and the life-giving Orange River that flows through it. It can be a playing field for men and their 4x4s, but it is also a place where you can simply sit quietly, take in the magnificent surroundings, and marvel at the wonder of God’s creation.

For a wonderful visual impression of this remarkable place, have a look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

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Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 2

Link to Part 1 here

Next, we set off for Gannabos, near Nieuwoudtville. The route took us over the Eselbank Pass, a beautiful but challenging drive for which a 4×4 is recommended. Along the way lies the Eselbank Waterfall, with two viewing points. The better of the two is not signposted, but fortunately it was clearly indicated on our Tracks4Africa GPS map, allowing us to find our way to it.

To better appreciate the terrain, look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

The route passed through the rooibos tea plantations between the villages of Eselbank and Wupperthal, before continuing through the Biedouw Valley, renowned for its spectacular annual display of wildflowers. Sadly, this year the season had arrived early and been unusually brief, and we encountered only a few scattered flowers.

I did get to see some more ruins, surrounded by flowers.

Our campsites at Gannabos guest farm were luxurious, with each site having its own very spacious ablution facility and kitchenette area.

Gannabos also boasts the largest quiver tree forest in the world, which we visited for sundowners.

An area closer to our campsite gave me access to do some landscape astrophotography.

With new knowledge and ideas gained from this outing, I would like to return here to improve on these.

After two lovely days at Gannabos, it was time to move on to Hondeklipbaai, where we were booked to spend the night. En route, we came across yet another lovely old ruin.

Our friends were greatly relieved to discover that the accommodation we had booked was considerably better than its name, Honne Pondokkies (literally, “Dog Shacks”), might suggest. As on our previous visit, supper at the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant did not disappoint. Unfortunately, the heavily overcast conditions put paid to my plans for some astrophotography on the beach and around the lighthouse. I did, however, manage to capture a few late-afternoon images before the clouds rolled in.

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Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 1

On a trip like this, I usually try to post daily updates, or at least keep them fairly regular. This time, however, I was hampered by a distinct lack of decent internet access. I had expected to be completely cut off from cellphone and internet connectivity in the Richtersveld, but I certainly hadn’t anticipated the poor connectivity we encountered during the rest of the trip. Even when we were in Wi-Fi zones at campsites or accommodation, or when my cellphone showed a full 3G signal, the connection was often so slow and unreliable that posting to my blog was virtually impossible.

As a result, I have decided to write up the trip retrospectively, in a few posts covering the journey as a whole.

This had been a long-anticipated and carefully planned road trip. With the Hilux — it’s not a bakkie — heavily laden, we finally set off. Day 1 involved a fairly long drive from GQ to a farm stay somewhere between Barrydale and Montagu. Rather than taking the busy N2, we opted for the more scenic R62.

I don’t think there can be a more striking illustration of the difference between the Eastern and Western Cape than the point where the R62 crosses from one province into the other. The contrast is almost immediate. The following dashcam photographs were taken less than a kilometre apart:

During our travels, I have found myself developing a growing fascination with the ruins that appear unexpectedly beside the road — remnants of lives, homes and places that have long since slipped into the past.

On Day 2, we met up with our friends in Robertson before continuing on towards the Cederberg. At the summit of Gydo Pass, we were rewarded with this stunning view.

The gravel road through the southern Cederberg region remains one of the most scenic roads in South Africa.

My fascination with ruins next to the road continues.

Camping at Kromrivier Cederberg Park, we spent the following day exploring the surrounding area. A visit to the Stadsaal (Town Hall) Caves was followed by an excursion to Truitjieskraal. Both offered spectacular examples of the distinctive rock formations for which the Cederberg is renowned.

Campsite at Kromrivier

Some more ruins along the way.

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Road tripping through the Klein Karoo and Overberg

As we set out to visit our children in Cape Town, we decided that, rather than making our customary headlong dash to arrive as quickly as possible, we would turn the journey into an unhurried road trip. It would be an opportunity to explore and appreciate the beautiful corners of our country that we have so often rushed past without stopping.

At Riversdale, we turned inland towards Barrydale, crossing the Garcia Pass, Muiskraal Pass, and Kliphoogte—a route of ever-changing scenery that offered a striking contrast to the coastal landscape we had left behind.

Along the way, we came across beautiful wildflowers in the veld. Naturally, we stopped to photograph them, only to be approached by a concerned local who suspected we were there to steal succulents. Apparently, the area has suffered several such thefts. Once we had reassured him that the only things we were taking were photographs, he wished us well and left us to continue capturing the beauty of the landscape through our lenses.

Barrydale is a quaint little town with plenty of character. After visiting the Barrydale Hand Weavers, we called in at the Joseph Barry Distillery for a brandy tasting. Although their brandy is produced in the Cognac style, it cannot, of course, bear that name. Interestingly, the distillery and the hand weavers share the same premises.

From there, we checked into the Karoo Art Hotel before setting off on foot to explore the town. We stopped to photograph the charming church and made our way to the local bookshop, only to find it closed and securely locked.

The day’s biggest surprise came after supper, when we unexpectedly ran into friends. They were returning home from Cape Town but had been delayed and left later than planned, resulting in an overnight stay in Barrydale. What had begun as an ordinary evening turned into a delightful opportunity to catch up over good conversation.

The following morning began with an invigorating—some might say foolhardy—plunge into a 9°C rock pool in the Tradouw River, a ritual that, according to the hotel owner, he faithfully observes every day. It was certainly an unforgettable way to start the morning.

From Barrydale, we enjoyed a leisurely drive to Cape Town, where we spent several wonderful days with our children.

While in Cape Town, I decided to take advantage of the exceptionally calm conditions to tackle a swim from Robben Island to Blouberg. With the weather providing an almost perfect window of opportunity, it was an opportunity not to be missed.

On our way home, we used the opportunity to explore the Overberg, staying over with a friend in Hermanus.

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Interrupted Camping Trip: some Astrophotography

Our original plan was to go camping at Anysberg Nature Reserve from 13 to 16 June. However, due to the severe weather over the previous two months and a notice on their website stating that the reserve would be closed until 10 June for repairs and maintenance, we phoned them on 5 June to confirm whether they would be open. We were told that they would probably remain closed for another two weeks, although we would receive an update during the following week. Unwilling to take any chances, we decided to look for an alternative destination. The group eventually agreed on Warmwaterberg Spa.

Unfortunately, I developed a nasty intestinal infection just two days before our departure. On the morning we were due to leave, I felt that I was over the worst of it and starting to improve, so I decided to join the trip anyway.

We arrived in the late afternoon and quickly set up camp in the beautiful campsite. After a relaxed and enjoyable braai, I headed out to find good spots for photographing the stars. It was a perfect, cloudless night, and I managed to capture a few lovely photos.

The next morning we enjoyed lounging in the warm mineral pools, followed by a refreshing plunge into the cold pool — a dramatic contrast from approximately 40 °C to 16 °C.

That evening the sky was overcast, ruling out any chance of astrophotography. Unfortunately, my intestinal infection flared up again, forcing us to cut the trip short and head home early the following morning. The drive back took us through stunning landscapes, but I was in no condition to take photographs. I will definitely have to return another time.

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Stars, a Kingfisher, Owls, Fossils and Dogs

After our previous stay at Ironstone Cottage outside Graaff Reinet, during which overcast and rainy conditions ruined any chance of astrophotography, I had decided to return and now the time had come.

Naturally, we arrived in Graff Reinet to overcast conditions, but at least with the weather forecast promising better conditions for the next day and, most importantly, evening. In the meantime, I took out my camera and started looking around for subjects to photograph and also scouting possible photos for the next night. A nearby ruin of a stone cottage held much promise.

A prickly pear plant also looked interesting.

We had a surprise visit from a Brown Hooded Kingfisher.

The next morning, we took a drive out to Nieu-Bethesda to visit the famous Owl House. Arriving in Nieu-Bethesda just before 9am, it initially seemed like a ghost town, with not a person in sight. We stopped to photograph the church.

By this time, we realised that we were simply a bit early and businesses started opening up. The visit to the Owl House was interesting, but an unexpected pleasant surprise was the visit to Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre, which included a guided walk, with a very well informed guide, to view some fossils still embedded in the river bed.

Before leaving Nieu-Bethesda, we purchased a cement owl from the daughter of Koos Malgas, the man who had worked closely with Helen Martins at the Owl House, manufactured by his grandson.

Back at Ironstone Cottage, we saw that the skies had started clearing and the evening turned out perfect for astrophotography

The next day saw us traveling north, to Douglas, for a brief family visit and to collect two puppies for friends. That evening, staying with family on their farm on the Vaal river, provided further opportunity to photograph the stars, despite the presence of a few clouds.

An early morning start, saw us collecting the puppies in town for the long drive home.

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Road tripping the Northern Cape : The route

With previous road trips, people have asked me to post details about our route with links, so here it is.

Click on links of Days to go to blog posts or on the other links for more information about the routes, accommodation, food etc.

Day 1:

Gqeberha to Britstown

Stayed at Vyfster The Old Jail, had excellent supper at Transkaroo Country Lodge Country Cafe who also do excellent take away coffee if you are just passing through.

Day 2 and Day 3

Britstown to Kalahari Trails/Meerkat Sanctuary

Camping at the Eco Veld Camp at Kalahari Trails

Day 4

Kalahari Trails to Nossob

Camping at Nossob

Day 5

Nossob to Twee Rivieren : On this day we took a detours to 13th and 14 boreholes, not recognised by Google Maps and therefore not visible on the map. You will have to use a paper map of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park to see those.

Camping at Twee Rivieren

Day 6 and Day 7

Twee Rivieren to Khamkirri with detour to Augrabies Falls

Camping at Khamkirri

On the way there, we stopped at Upington Slaghuis, definitely the place to buy your meat if you are traveling in the vicinity and also a good source of local information from the friendly staff.

Another worthwhile stop, requiring a slight detour, was Kanoniki Padstal, where we had excellent coffee and pancakes, an informative and interesting chat with the owner and did some shopping.

Day 8

Khamkirri to Van Zylsrus

Stay at Vanzylsrus Hotel , meander through their arty premises, have a cold one in the bar and supper in their restaurant, an enchanting experience.

Day 9

Van Zylsrus to Witsand Kalahari reserve : because of heavy rain on the day we were traveling here, as well as damage to the roads by heavy rains some days earlier, we wanted to avoid the gravel roads and took quite a detour in order to stay on tar roads. In different circumstances, we would have chosen a very different route between Van Zyslrus and Olifantshoek.

Camping at Witsand Kalahari was quite tricky to arrange since they didn’t respond to email and we eventually got hold of them on Whatsapp, using the number in the link. Then, getting an invoice out of them was equally tricky. But eventually well worth the effort.

Day 10

Witsand to Mokala

Stop along the way for excellent brunch at Proviand in Griekwastad

At Mokala, we stayed at Haak-en-Steek Camp

Day 11

Mokala to Graaff Reinet : We drove the length of Mokala National Park, exiting at Lilydale. For some reason, Google Maps will simply not show this, so my map starts at Lilydale. Approaching Ironstone Cottage near Graaff Reinet, Google maps can once again not be trusted. Here we had clear instructions from the owners on which route to take.

Ironstone Cottage is a beautiful cottage in a stunning setting, an excellent weekend getaway from Gqeberha.

For breakfast the next morning, we had roosterkoek and coffee from Chargo Farm Stall in Graaff Reinet. Their roosterkoek are well worth it, but be sure to be very hungry when tackling one.

In summary: 12 days, roughly 4000 km, some criss-crossing of our route, necessitaded by available dates in National Parks, an awesome experience.

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Road tripping the Northern Cape : Days 11 & 12 : Heading home

After heavy overnight rain, we woke up to a persistent light drizzle, but with lots of standing water still around. The roads in Mokala were muddy and, despite 4WD we were slipping and sliding in some places.

Most of the animals were far off in the hills,

although a few did come down to play in the mud.

In Britstown we got coffee, then heading to Graaff Reinet. At one stage it looked like the clouds might clear and I had some hope for astrophotography opportunities in Graaff Reinet, but this was not to be and by the time we reached Graaff Reinet, heavy clouds and light rain greeted us. At Ironstone cottage, I realised that the place was perfect for astrophotography, so immediately booked another stay there in July, hoping for better weather.

Thus ended our 12 day road trip, with a return home the next morning, fueled by Coffee and excellent Roosterkoek from the new Chargo Farm Stall in Graaff Reinet.

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Road tripping the Northern Cape : Day 10 : Witsand to Mokala

We woke up to the sound of light rain falling on our tents and quickly broke up camp, fearing a deluge like we had the previous day. However, the rain remained light. Soon we were on our way, once more marveling in the scenery.

We stopped at Proviand in Griekwastad for an excellent breakfast and coffee. Passing through Douglas, we decided to make a detour to view the confluence of the Orange and Vaal rivers. Sadly, not much is made to promote this as a tourist spot and the viewpoint and picnic site were in poor condition, badly letting down the natural beauty of the spot.

A Goliath Heron was doing its streches on a tree stump at the edge of the river.

Approaching Mokala, we met up with two tortoises walking along the road, one of these refusing to be photographed, but the other quite happy to pose

At Mokala, we stayed at Haak en Steek, which consists of a two bedroom cottage and a few camp sites next to a water hole. We were greeted by a herd of Buffalo, coming to drink at the water hole.

Soon the dark clouds started gathering and my plans for astrophotography got canceled. Instead, I tried some lightning photography. When the rain started coming down, we were very happy to have the option of sleeping in the cottage instead of our tents.