Category: Africa

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 1: Roadtripping Gqeberha to Lentelus farmstay

The day started badly, requiring a stop at the local Toyota garage to get the Hilux’s spare wheel unstuck, a problem discovered the previous evening, when wanting to check that the spare was properly inflated. After nearly 40 minute delay, we got going, only to get stuck behind an extra heavy vehicle, transporting a blade for a wind power generator.

After eventually being let past, we got to Steytlerville, anticipating brunch at The Verandah Coffee Shop, combined with a visit to the motor museum, only to find a closed door with no reaction when we rang the bell. We went on to the Royal Hotel, for a very late brunch or rather early lunch.

After being assured that there was always someone at the motor museum, we returned there and, upon searching around the back, found Michelle, who said she was short staffed due to her husband feeling ill, therefor having to run the restaurant and museum alone for the day. She gave us an informative tour of the museum and also informed us about their wildlife rehabilitation program. The highlight of the museum is the beautifully restored Ford GT 40.

From here, we proceeded past Willowmore to Oudtshoorn, stopping at De Rust for diesel and coffee. A surprise at the Caltex garage, was an artwork by Freek Steenberg, who uses wood and other natural materials, collected from the fields on and around his farm, for his art.

The scenery through the Klein Karoo is always special, but on this trip made even more so by the rain clouds gathering and sun highlights.

A quick stop at De Hoop, to photograph the beautiful church, built in 1909 and currently apparently for sale. I have often, driving past, promised myself that, one day, I would stop to photograph it and this seemed like a good day to fulfill that promise.

Arriving at Lentelus farmstay, we quickly unpacked and had supper, before downloading and editing the day’s photos and video.

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Late afternoon at Cape Recife Lighthouse and Blue Supermoon

On 19 August 2024 we had a blue moon and supermoon occuring simultaneously, normally a rare occurrence, but this the second within a 12 month period.

A supermoon occurs when the full moon is closer than usual to earth, resulting in the moon appearing larger than normal.

A blue moon can be either a second full moon within a calendar month or the third of four full moons in a given season, since there are normally only three full moons in a season.

Since moon rise would be occurring within minutes of sunset, I decided that this would be a good occasion to visit Cape Recife Lighthouse for a few photos.

The sunset was beautiful and I managed to get a sunburst photo over the lighthouse, while a few African Black Oystercatchers were enjoying the last light on the beach.

Soon the moon started rising over the sea.

With the sky still tinted pink and orange, the moon completed the picture beautifully.

As darkness set in, the moon appeared progressively brighter.

Finally, all that was visible, was the supermoon.

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Chobe 2024: links

Click on the links below to be taken to the relevant day’s post

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

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Chobe, February 2024, Day 7

All too soon, our last day at Pangolin Chobe Hotel arrived. We had one last early morning excursion on the river. The impalas seemed frisky this morning

White-breasted cormorants gave a flying display, taking off one at a time

A pair of African fish eagles were regally surveying their kingdom from their perch high above the river

We stopped at Elephant bay for our morning coffee, sharing the space with Impala, Crocodiles, and elephants

A Pied kingfisher gave a hovering display, which I tried to photograph at slow shutter speed, more practice needed

By this time we had to rush back to the hotel in order to catch our flights. Along the way, someone on the boat spotted a baby hippo and we had to make a quick U-turn to grab a few last minute photos. Mamma hippo didn’t seem too impressed with us.

At the airport, we were told that our flight was delayed by 30-40 minutes, which ended up being 90 minutes. While waiting, we started chatting to two brothers who had also been on our flight coming to Chobe. This turned out to be a very interesting and enlightening chat and their photography websites are certainly worth a visit. Dave does wildlife, while Peter is a master at black and white landscape photography.

Back home, lots of editing work awaited us, especially for Liana with her videos. A few quick ones below, with more to follow

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Chobe 2024, Day 6

On our last full day, we once again had an early start, leaving the hotel at 5:30. We entered the park by a different route to the previous times. First stopping by a group of zebra for a few photos, we continued on to a watering hole, where we saw a Kori bustard, browsing in the tall grass, with beautiful golden light from the rising sun.

A long, sandy road followed, where the main attraction was a couple of squirrels in a tree stump, who kept us entertained for a while

We had heard the previous day that there were lions around a giraffe kill and went in search. Most of the lions had clearly already eaten their fill and departed. From the smell, it was clear that this was no fresh kill, but a lioness and her cubs were still hanging around, while all around, vultures were patiently waiting in the trees

After a coffee stop, I got to practice some more lilac-breasted roller shots. One day I will get the perfect one…

A chameleon showed unexpected speed and we just managed to grab a few quick shots before it disappeared into the vegetation

The afternoon session on the river started with a search for Jacanas. Along the way we also found another Malachite kingfisher

I can never get enough of the African fish eagles, such impressive birds

A Woodland kingfisher was a pleasant surprise

Red-billed oxpeckers were playing on the buffaloes

Once again, the Chobe sunset delivered, with elephants, crocodiles and hippos all playing their part

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Tanzania 2023 : Part 3 : Ngorongoro Crater

Post updated with some video links.

Part 1 here

Part 2 here

From Kigoma, it was another trip to Dar es Salaam for an overnight. The next morning we flew to Lake Manyara Airport, followed by a road transfer to The Highlands Lodge in Ngorongoro conservation area.

Along the way we got our first, breathtaking view of the Ngorongoro Crater.

Driving along the crater edge, we saw some Olive baboons. We also stopped for lunch and a hike up to the edge of Olmoti Crater. Along the way to the lodge we drove past several Masai villages.

Since we only had one full day in the Ngorongoro area, due to flight schedule changes, we decided to make the most of it and spend the full day exploring the crater. Thus it was a 06:00 start, seeing the sunrise as we descend into the crater.

The number of animals in the crater is quite impressive. It is almost impossible to capture the sheer magnificence of the experience on photos.

Video by Liana Steenkamp

We were entertained by two rhino’s

A rich birdlife is also to be seen in the crater. I was lucky to spot a malachite kingfisher while we were having breakfast. Later, during our lunch, a black kite tried its best to steal the food from our plates. Numerous egrets were to be seen all over.

The lions also didn’t disappoint, although they were clearly suffering in the midday heat

Some video of the lion cubs, by Liana Steenkamp

On our way out we got to see a beautiful serval

The next morning it was off back to Dar es Salaam for a short stopover before a middle of the night flight back home. Takeoff from Lake Manyara airport is quite an interesting experience.

Final reflections: Tanzania is a beautiful and very welcoming country, the people friendly and always helpful. The organisational skills of the ground staff at the small airports is amazing.

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Tanzania 2023 Part 2: Mahale Mountains National Park: Chimpanzee Trekking

Part 1 here

After departing Pemba, we had to spend a day in Dar es Salaam, waiting for a flight to Kigoma. From Kigoma it was a 5 hour road trip over pretty bad roads, including a ferry crossing, to get to Mahale Mountains National Park. Once in the park, an hour boat trip on Lake Tanganyika took us to Mbali Mbali Mahale lodge, a truly magical place.

After breakfast the next morning, we went chimpanzee trekking with our guide, Sixtus. Hiking in the forest was and interesting experience. The terrain was not too difficult, but the heat and humidity soon got to us. After an hour we were completely drenched, my clothes looking as if I had been swimming with them. Eventually, after about two hours, we found two large male chimpanzees resting in a tree. Sixtus ensured us that we just had to wait a while and they would come down. An hour later, still waiting, I started to question whether he knew what he was talking about, but not too long after that he was proven right. We were thoroughly entertained by Christmas and Teddy.

Photographing the chimpanzees proved to be quite a challenge due to the light conditions in the forest, with spots of very bright sunlight and areas of deep shadow.

The planned afternoon boat cruise on the lake got cancelled due to a thunderstorm which came through and we were told that the lodge would be closing for the rainy season within the next few days. Being exhausted from the morning hike, we did not really mind and spent the afternoon lazing about.

Next morning we went chimpanzee trekking again.

We soon found a large group, including several youngsters who were quite playful, but then had to follow them as they crossed through dense forest from one trail to the next. Once there, we could sit down and enjoy their antics, spending nearly an hour with them.

Video by Liana: sound on for full appreciation

Once again, that afternoon, a thunderstorm came through, leading to cancellation of the boat cruise on the lake. Fortunately the boat transfers to and from the lodge gave us a decent experience of the world’s longest and second largest (by volume) lake.

Another 5 hour road trip saw us back in Kigoma the next afternoon. From our hotel we saw the fishing boats going out on the lake for the night. The next morning, while having breakfast, we watched them returning, before going to visit the Livingstone museum in Kigoma.

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    Tanzania 2023: Part 1: Pemba Island Diving

    At last the long anticipated family tropical island holiday arrived. Despite relatively short distances and flight times involved, travel to Zanzibar and Pemba Island from South Africa has become a bit of a challenge. We left home Friday 10 February at around 10:30 and finally arrived at The Aiyana on Pemba Island around 14:00 on Saturday, having had a long layover in Johannesburg, arriving in Dar es Salaam at around 02:00 with about 3 hours sleep in Dar es Salaam Serena Hotel. From Dar es Salaam to Pemba we flew in a Cessna Grand Caravan, a plane which we would eventually spend a lot of time in over the course of the Tanzania trip.

    Sunday morning saw us ready to go diving with Afro Divers. After a light breakfast of fruit, croissants and coffee, we were picked up from The Aiyana at 08:00 and transported to the dive centre, where we were welcomed by Michael and his crew and kitted out. A short boat trip got us to our first dive site and for some of the family members who don’t scuba, to a lovely site for snorkelling. The diving off Pemba Island is truly magnificent: warm water, unspoilt coral reefs, easy entry with gradual descents along the walls. This is about as relaxing as diving can get.

    More diving was to follow for the next few days.

    The octopuses and their ability to camouflage themselves by rapidly changing their appearance according to the surroundings never cease to amaze me.

    Equally well camouflaged amongst the corals are the leaf scorpionfish.

    Some beautiful moray eels also poked their heads out.

    We took a day off from diving to explore some other attractions on Pemba Island. A visit to the mangroves was followed by lunch in a small local restaurant in Makangale town and an afternoon boat ride to the sandbank north of the island. These were all organised by Sija of Pemba Tours

    Finally some more diving to end off the first part of our trip.

    Part 2 : Mahale Mountains National Park : Chimpanzee trekking here

    Part 3 : Ngorongoro Crater here

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 3): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

    Part 1 here

    Part 2 here

    After arriving at the hotel and settling into our rooms, Grant spent some time giving those of us who wanted some photo editing tips. I found this tremendously helpful and any editing mistakes you spot in my photos are purely due to my inexperience, certainly not his lack of teaching.

    After tea, it was time for a game drive in Chobe National Park

    Following the game drive, the group decided unanimously that we wanted to swop the next morning’s game drive for another photo boat excursion. The sightings from the boats seemed to be better and on the boats one could avoid the heat and dust encountered on the game drive vehicles.

    A long time spent trying to photograph Carmine bee-eaters the next morning mainly taught me that I need a lot more practice with the small, fast moving birds.

    Liana’s video gives an idea of the quick and unpredictable movements of the bee-eaters.

    The afternoon brought elephants against a lovely sunset

    The last morning at Pangolin for myself and Liana (we had to depart early the next morning and thus miss the last excursion), gave us more hippos, crocodiles, birds and a tigertail dragonfly. Thanks to Grant for showing me how to get rid of that irritating blade of grass over the croc’s mouth.

    The elephants of Chobe never failed to keep us entertained and Liana had more than enough material for a few elephant videos (make sure you have sound on for the videos)

    On our last afternoon we thought some elephants might join us in the photo boat,

    spent some more time with the elephants, skimmers and an Openbill stork,

    and watched another spectacular sunset with a bromance between two elephants, observed by us and some buffalo.

    A spectacular end to a spectacular 6 days with Pangolin and Grant Atkinson. The next morning, while the rest of the group went on one last photo excusion, we departed for Francistown, on our way to Mashatu.

    Part 4: Mashatu

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 2): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangoling Voyager Houseboat

    Part 1 here

    We arrived in Kasane, at Pangolin Photo Safaris, the main focus of our Botswana trip, keen for a learning experience and wow, did we learn a lot here! Upon arrival, we met our photo host for the 6 days, Grant Atkinson, who ensured that we had an amazing experience here. We were also very lucky to be with a really pleasant group of people for the duration, who all contributed to making this a truly memorable experience.

    The first 3 days were spent on the Pangolin houseboat, which required us to enter Namibia, even though the only time we set foot on land in Namibia was for the visit to the Immigration Office.

    We just had time to settle in to our very comfortable accommodation on the houseboat before going on our first excursion on the Pangolin photo boats, which are brilliantly designed to give 8 photographers equal opportunity to get great shots and with very knowledgeable guides positioning the boats for the best shots.

    Arriving back at the houseboat after our first afternoon excursion, we settled into our rhythm for the next 6 days, of downloading, sorting and backing up photos and video and charging camera batteries in order to be ready for the next session.

    We also had to get used to the mealtime schedule being arranged around photographic excursions: early morning coffee and a rusk or light breakfast, brunch at 11:00 after returning from the morning session, high tea around 15:00 before the late afternoon photographic excursion and supper around 19:00 after returning. Sleep time was limited by the need to get the cameras ready for the next morning.

    Next morning we greeted the sunrise on the water.

    Ample birdlife was to be seen all around us as well as some beautiful water lillies.

    The afternoon brought more elephants and a suggestion from Grant to try some high key photography, which openend my eyes to new possibilities.

    Once again the birdlife was not to be forgotten

    The next morning there were more hippos at sunrise,

    followed by more birdlife

    We were amused by the antics of two water monitors, trying to steal a crocodile’s eggs

    The afternoon brought an elephant crossing the river, a hippo upset at us for getting too close and some baboon antics,

    but the biggest surprise of all, was a Fish Eagle catching a huge catfish in the shallow water right in front of us. A long fight ensued, with the Fish Eagle trying to drag the struggling fish away from the water, while also being harassed by lapwings. After about 15 minutes, it was eventually able to settle down to its hard earned meal.

    The next morning brought another hunt, this one less successful

    Although the lions were looking hungry, the young ones still remained playful. I do hope the pride found some food later on.

    This ended our 3 days on the houseboat. After brunch we departed for the hotel, first having to go through Immigration in order to officially exit Namibia and enter Botswana again.

    Part 3: Pangolin Chobe Hotel