Chobe 2024: links

Click on the links below to be taken to the relevant day’s post

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

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Chobe, February 2024, Day 7

All too soon, our last day at Pangolin Chobe Hotel arrived. We had one last early morning excursion on the river. The impalas seemed frisky this morning

White-breasted cormorants gave a flying display, taking off one at a time

A pair of African fish eagles were regally surveying their kingdom from their perch high above the river

We stopped at Elephant bay for our morning coffee, sharing the space with Impala, Crocodiles, and elephants

A Pied kingfisher gave a hovering display, which I tried to photograph at slow shutter speed, more practice needed

By this time we had to rush back to the hotel in order to catch our flights. Along the way, someone on the boat spotted a baby hippo and we had to make a quick U-turn to grab a few last minute photos. Mamma hippo didn’t seem too impressed with us.

At the airport, we were told that our flight was delayed by 30-40 minutes, which ended up being 90 minutes. While waiting, we started chatting to two brothers who had also been on our flight coming to Chobe. This turned out to be a very interesting and enlightening chat and their photography websites are certainly worth a visit. Dave does wildlife, while Peter is a master at black and white landscape photography.

Back home, lots of editing work awaited us, especially for Liana with her videos. A few quick ones below, with more to follow

Chobe 2024, Day 6

On our last full day, we once again had an early start, leaving the hotel at 5:30. We entered the park by a different route to the previous times. First stopping by a group of zebra for a few photos, we continued on to a watering hole, where we saw a Kori bustard, browsing in the tall grass, with beautiful golden light from the rising sun.

A long, sandy road followed, where the main attraction was a couple of squirrels in a tree stump, who kept us entertained for a while

We had heard the previous day that there were lions around a giraffe kill and went in search. Most of the lions had clearly already eaten their fill and departed. From the smell, it was clear that this was no fresh kill, but a lioness and her cubs were still hanging around, while all around, vultures were patiently waiting in the trees

After a coffee stop, I got to practice some more lilac-breasted roller shots. One day I will get the perfect one…

A chameleon showed unexpected speed and we just managed to grab a few quick shots before it disappeared into the vegetation

The afternoon session on the river started with a search for Jacanas. Along the way we also found another Malachite kingfisher

I can never get enough of the African fish eagles, such impressive birds

A Woodland kingfisher was a pleasant surprise

Red-billed oxpeckers were playing on the buffaloes

Once again, the Chobe sunset delivered, with elephants, crocodiles and hippos all playing their part

Chobe, February 2024, Day 5

Another day on which we could get an extra half hour sleep, with coffee at 5:30 and a 6:00am departure to the river.

On the boat, cameras mounted and everything ready (photo credit Tom Williams), we first went in search of the birds in the reeds.

We were greeted by a Malachite Kingfisher and multiple Blue-cheeked bee-eaters.

Next up, African Jacanas walking on the water lilies

Terns were giving a flying display

A Pygmy Goose was sitting on a tree stump, appearing to be having a discussion with an African Darter

A Red-billed oxpecker was doing its thing on a buffalo’s nose

Just to remind us that this was indeed World Hippo Day, a hippo decided to photobomb the elephants

In the afternoon we saw some more bee-eaters hunting

An African Darter was struggling with a fish it had caught

Elephants were clearly feeling the heat and cooling off in the river

The sunset was once again a spectacular affair

The dust kicked up by the elephants, combined with the light from the setting sun, created some interesting effects

The day ended with another excellent supper created by chef Robson and his team, enjoyed in the company of strangers from across the world who had, by now, become friends, sharing their day’s experiences.

Botswana 2022 (Part 3): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

Part 1 here

Part 2 here

After arriving at the hotel and settling into our rooms, Grant spent some time giving those of us who wanted some photo editing tips. I found this tremendously helpful and any editing mistakes you spot in my photos are purely due to my inexperience, certainly not his lack of teaching.

After tea, it was time for a game drive in Chobe National Park

Following the game drive, the group decided unanimously that we wanted to swop the next morning’s game drive for another photo boat excursion. The sightings from the boats seemed to be better and on the boats one could avoid the heat and dust encountered on the game drive vehicles.

A long time spent trying to photograph Carmine bee-eaters the next morning mainly taught me that I need a lot more practice with the small, fast moving birds.

Liana’s video gives an idea of the quick and unpredictable movements of the bee-eaters.

The afternoon brought elephants against a lovely sunset

The last morning at Pangolin for myself and Liana (we had to depart early the next morning and thus miss the last excursion), gave us more hippos, crocodiles, birds and a tigertail dragonfly. Thanks to Grant for showing me how to get rid of that irritating blade of grass over the croc’s mouth.

The elephants of Chobe never failed to keep us entertained and Liana had more than enough material for a few elephant videos (make sure you have sound on for the videos)

On our last afternoon we thought some elephants might join us in the photo boat,

spent some more time with the elephants, skimmers and an Openbill stork,

and watched another spectacular sunset with a bromance between two elephants, observed by us and some buffalo.

A spectacular end to a spectacular 6 days with Pangolin and Grant Atkinson. The next morning, while the rest of the group went on one last photo excusion, we departed for Francistown, on our way to Mashatu.

Part 4: Mashatu

Botswana 2022 (Part 2): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangoling Voyager Houseboat

Part 1 here

We arrived in Kasane, at Pangolin Photo Safaris, the main focus of our Botswana trip, keen for a learning experience and wow, did we learn a lot here! Upon arrival, we met our photo host for the 6 days, Grant Atkinson, who ensured that we had an amazing experience here. We were also very lucky to be with a really pleasant group of people for the duration, who all contributed to making this a truly memorable experience.

The first 3 days were spent on the Pangolin houseboat, which required us to enter Namibia, even though the only time we set foot on land in Namibia was for the visit to the Immigration Office.

We just had time to settle in to our very comfortable accommodation on the houseboat before going on our first excursion on the Pangolin photo boats, which are brilliantly designed to give 8 photographers equal opportunity to get great shots and with very knowledgeable guides positioning the boats for the best shots.

Arriving back at the houseboat after our first afternoon excursion, we settled into our rhythm for the next 6 days, of downloading, sorting and backing up photos and video and charging camera batteries in order to be ready for the next session.

We also had to get used to the mealtime schedule being arranged around photographic excursions: early morning coffee and a rusk or light breakfast, brunch at 11:00 after returning from the morning session, high tea around 15:00 before the late afternoon photographic excursion and supper around 19:00 after returning. Sleep time was limited by the need to get the cameras ready for the next morning.

Next morning we greeted the sunrise on the water.

Ample birdlife was to be seen all around us as well as some beautiful water lillies.

The afternoon brought more elephants and a suggestion from Grant to try some high key photography, which openend my eyes to new possibilities.

Once again the birdlife was not to be forgotten

The next morning there were more hippos at sunrise,

followed by more birdlife

We were amused by the antics of two water monitors, trying to steal a crocodile’s eggs

The afternoon brought an elephant crossing the river, a hippo upset at us for getting too close and some baboon antics,

but the biggest surprise of all, was a Fish Eagle catching a huge catfish in the shallow water right in front of us. A long fight ensued, with the Fish Eagle trying to drag the struggling fish away from the water, while also being harassed by lapwings. After about 15 minutes, it was eventually able to settle down to its hard earned meal.

The next morning brought another hunt, this one less successful

Although the lions were looking hungry, the young ones still remained playful. I do hope the pride found some food later on.

This ended our 3 days on the houseboat. After brunch we departed for the hotel, first having to go through Immigration in order to officially exit Namibia and enter Botswana again.

Part 3: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

Botswana 2022 (Part 1 Nata and Maun)

Updated with some video links

After 3 days of hard driving, totalling over 1800 km, we eventually reached Nata Lodge.

Visiting Nata Bird Sanctuary, we knew not to expect too much bird life so late in the dry season, but encountered the first of many spectacular sunsets which we were to see during our trip.

After two days at Nata, recovering from our long drive, it was on to Leopard Plains, where we were given a very friendly reception in this lovely setting.

Along the way, we had an interesting sighting of elephants, that had removed a heavy concrete slab, covering a fresh water pipeline next to the main road, transporting clean water from a water treatment plant to neighbouring villages. Apparently the elephants prefer this clean water to that which they could obtain in the nearby Boteti river.

While at Leopard Plains, we did a guided daytrip to Makgadigadi Pans National Park, encountering large numbers of zebra, wildebeest, elephants and pelicans in the Boteti riverbed and quite a few vultures around.

Some video from Makgadigadi on Liana’s YouTube channel

The next morning we did an early morning game drive on the Leopard Plains farm, unfortunately did not get to see any leopard, but saw some really good looking kudu

From here it was on to Maun, where we had the best coffee in Botswana at Dusty Donkey Cafe.

Boteti Tented Safari Lodge near Maun, was a pretty mixed experience. We did have a lovely sunset mokoro cruise on the river on our first afternoon.

The next two days were spent on excursions: a mokoro trip on the Delta and a day trip to Moremi, where we saw some very sleepy lions, suffering in the 40oC daytime heat.

Liana’s Moremi video link

This effectively concluded the first part of our trip. We departed Maun for Kasane, with an overnight stop at Eselbe Camp, an interesting, rustic camp, where we could unfortunately not go canoeing on the Nata river, due to presence of hippo in the river close to the camp. We did get a very nice fillet steak supper, prepared by the owner, Rupert and a good night’s rest in comfortable lodging.

Part 2: Pangolin Voyager Houseboat