Flowers, Stars and More: Day 4: Stars, at last

Day 4 arrived, cold, dreary, overcast, not what we had been hoping for, but true to the weather forecast, which had been accurate for once. We decided, nonetheless, to take the drive to the Skilpad section of Namaqua National Park. The locals in Hondeklipbaai advised us to take the detour, returning to the N7 the way we had come, due to road conditions.

We stopped in Kamieskroon to get fuel for the car and ourselves. Entering Kamieskroon, we saw a beautiful little church.

In Kamieskroon, I also saw a street carrying my name, but quite sure not named after me or any relation.

After fuelling the car, we drove towards the National Park, stopping along the way for breakfast at Die Murasie

Once in the Park, we decided to forego the planned hike, since it had started raining and we did not want to get drenched. Instead, we drove the two circle routes in the Park, one of which is new and labelled a 4×4 route, but really a very easily driveable route.

As expected, in the rain, most of the flowers were hiding their faces. However, this did not really detract too much from the spectacle and we still had a really good time.

Near the end of the 4×4 loop, we saw a few Springbok in a field of flowers, a very special sight.

Making our way back to Hondeklipbaai, we were quite pleased with ourselves about the lovely day we had and the fact that we would be able to get to bed early, but this was not to be. About 20km before our destination, we encountered a quartet of elderly people struggling to change a flat tyre. By the time we had finished assisting them, not only were we rain drenched, which we had avoided in the Park, but also covered in mud.

Eventually arriving at out accommodation at Dogstone Cottage, we took a quick shower and then went to the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant for an early supper, which turned out to be an excellent choice. The reception was very friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the food excellent. Liana had a marrow bone starter and I had prawns. For mains she had lobster and I had pan fried snoek and sweet potato.

Exiting the restaurant, we were just in time to catch the sunset, the clouds starting to clear.

With the clouds rapidly clearing, I was able to grab a few Milky Way photos as well.

Tomorrow we turn back south, heading towards Clanwilliam.

Flowers, Stars & More : Day 3 : Going North

Leaving Yzerfontein, we made a quick stop at Weskus Padstal to fill our travel mugs with good coffee. The breakfast smells were tempting, but we had “padkos” of cheese and tomato sandwiches and “braaiwors” in the car, so resisted the temptation.

We headed north along the coast, passing through Velddrif and Dwarskersbos, turning inland at Elandsbaai, towards Graafwater. Unfortunately, driving into the sun, combined with the number of insects committing suicide against the windscreen, resulted in less than perfect dashcam footage.

Just before Graafwater, Liana pointed out a somewhat rundown house, surrounded by wildflowers, stating that I am always looking for suitable focus point in my photos and this might make a good subject.

From Graafwater, a dirt road took us back towards the N7, with a quick stop to photograph a railway line.

Then it was on to Maskam Guest Farm outside Vanrhynsdorp, where we were able to explore their flower route and grab a toasted sandwich and Coke for a light lunch.

Interestingly, some of the flowers at Maskam Guest Farm appear to be planted in rows, the result of the flowers spontaneously growing in a rooibos tea plantation, between the rows of rooibos tea plants.

From here it was back to theN7, past Vanrhynsdorp, along the Knersvlakte, apparently so named due to the sound the oxwagens’ wheels made on the stones, past Garies, where we turned back towards the coast.

The number and variety of flowers along the way were truly impressive.

Approaching Hondeklipbaai, we suddenly encountered dark clouds, arriving in town in midwinter after having spent the day in bright sunshine and summery temperatures.

Our accommodation at Dogstone Cottage was very welcoming. Dinner was an excellent seafood platter at Dop en Kreef restaurant.

We ended the day, hoping that the weather would play along on Day 4 and allow us to see the impressive flowers in the Skilpad section of the Namaqua National Park.

Flowers, Stars & More: Day 2: Mostly flowers

We had a slightly delayed start to the day, having to wait for the bakkie’s windscreen to get de-iced before we could hit the road. The first town we passed trough, Montagu, still seemed fast asleep at almost 8 o’clock in the morning and we had to wait until we reached Robertson before we could get coffee and breakfast. On the way to Robertson we passed through the beautiful Cogmanskloof.

No food photos today since I made the mistake of sitting on the wrong side of the table, resulting in poor light for food photography, or any photography for that matter. This is a pity, since the coffee and croissants at Strictly Coffee were excellent and we received service with a smile.

After breakfast, on the way to Worcester, we noticed snow on the Matroosberg.

After Worcester, we took a detour in order to drive along the famous Bainskloof Pass, built by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1853 and more recently declared a national monument. Our bakkie is fortunately low enough to pass under Dacre’s pulpit, where many a large truck has gotten stuck after ignoring all the warnings along the way. And no, we didn’t see any leopards, despite the promise on the road signs.

Passing through Wellington, Malmesbury and Darling, we reached the West Coast National Park in good time and were soon fascinated by the magnificent flower display in the Postberg section, which is only open for two months a year, during flower season.

The flowers really speak for themselves, no words required.

Satisfied, but exhausted, we arrived at Orca House in Yzerfontein, where we received a friendly reception from Francois. We soon had a fire lit for a braai and then relaxed on the dune in front of the house, overlooking the sea, with a glass of wine in hand.

After dinner, it was once again time to download and edit photos and video and prepare our camera equipment for the next day.

Look at the great daschcam footage of the day, ably curated by Liana to create a lovely memory of the day.

Late afternoon at Cape Recife Lighthouse and Blue Supermoon

On 19 August 2024 we had a blue moon and supermoon occuring simultaneously, normally a rare occurrence, but this the second within a 12 month period.

A supermoon occurs when the full moon is closer than usual to earth, resulting in the moon appearing larger than normal.

A blue moon can be either a second full moon within a calendar month or the third of four full moons in a given season, since there are normally only three full moons in a season.

Since moon rise would be occurring within minutes of sunset, I decided that this would be a good occasion to visit Cape Recife Lighthouse for a few photos.

The sunset was beautiful and I managed to get a sunburst photo over the lighthouse, while a few African Black Oystercatchers were enjoying the last light on the beach.

Soon the moon started rising over the sea.

With the sky still tinted pink and orange, the moon completed the picture beautifully.

As darkness set in, the moon appeared progressively brighter.

Finally, all that was visible, was the supermoon.

Chobe 2024: links

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Day 6

Day 7

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Chobe, February 2024, Day 7

All too soon, our last day at Pangolin Chobe Hotel arrived. We had one last early morning excursion on the river. The impalas seemed frisky this morning

White-breasted cormorants gave a flying display, taking off one at a time

A pair of African fish eagles were regally surveying their kingdom from their perch high above the river

We stopped at Elephant bay for our morning coffee, sharing the space with Impala, Crocodiles, and elephants

A Pied kingfisher gave a hovering display, which I tried to photograph at slow shutter speed, more practice needed

By this time we had to rush back to the hotel in order to catch our flights. Along the way, someone on the boat spotted a baby hippo and we had to make a quick U-turn to grab a few last minute photos. Mamma hippo didn’t seem too impressed with us.

At the airport, we were told that our flight was delayed by 30-40 minutes, which ended up being 90 minutes. While waiting, we started chatting to two brothers who had also been on our flight coming to Chobe. This turned out to be a very interesting and enlightening chat and their photography websites are certainly worth a visit. Dave does wildlife, while Peter is a master at black and white landscape photography.

Back home, lots of editing work awaited us, especially for Liana with her videos. A few quick ones below, with more to follow

Chobe 2024, Day 6

On our last full day, we once again had an early start, leaving the hotel at 5:30. We entered the park by a different route to the previous times. First stopping by a group of zebra for a few photos, we continued on to a watering hole, where we saw a Kori bustard, browsing in the tall grass, with beautiful golden light from the rising sun.

A long, sandy road followed, where the main attraction was a couple of squirrels in a tree stump, who kept us entertained for a while

We had heard the previous day that there were lions around a giraffe kill and went in search. Most of the lions had clearly already eaten their fill and departed. From the smell, it was clear that this was no fresh kill, but a lioness and her cubs were still hanging around, while all around, vultures were patiently waiting in the trees

After a coffee stop, I got to practice some more lilac-breasted roller shots. One day I will get the perfect one…

A chameleon showed unexpected speed and we just managed to grab a few quick shots before it disappeared into the vegetation

The afternoon session on the river started with a search for Jacanas. Along the way we also found another Malachite kingfisher

I can never get enough of the African fish eagles, such impressive birds

A Woodland kingfisher was a pleasant surprise

Red-billed oxpeckers were playing on the buffaloes

Once again, the Chobe sunset delivered, with elephants, crocodiles and hippos all playing their part

Chobe, February 2024, Day 5

Another day on which we could get an extra half hour sleep, with coffee at 5:30 and a 6:00am departure to the river.

On the boat, cameras mounted and everything ready (photo credit Tom Williams), we first went in search of the birds in the reeds.

We were greeted by a Malachite Kingfisher and multiple Blue-cheeked bee-eaters.

Next up, African Jacanas walking on the water lilies

Terns were giving a flying display

A Pygmy Goose was sitting on a tree stump, appearing to be having a discussion with an African Darter

A Red-billed oxpecker was doing its thing on a buffalo’s nose

Just to remind us that this was indeed World Hippo Day, a hippo decided to photobomb the elephants

In the afternoon we saw some more bee-eaters hunting

An African Darter was struggling with a fish it had caught

Elephants were clearly feeling the heat and cooling off in the river

The sunset was once again a spectacular affair

The dust kicked up by the elephants, combined with the light from the setting sun, created some interesting effects

The day ended with another excellent supper created by chef Robson and his team, enjoyed in the company of strangers from across the world who had, by now, become friends, sharing their day’s experiences.

Chobe, February 2024, Day 4

This is the day on which the lack of sleep finally caught up to me, thus the delayed blog post. Once again we had a very early start, coffee at 5: 00, with a 5:30 departure to the Chobe National Park entrance gate. Entering the park just before sunrise, we were greeted by the eerie silhouettes of Marabou storks sleeping high in the dead trees

Soon they started waking up and taking off. These birds, truly magnificent in their ugliness, are surprisingly elegant in flight

Up next, was a group of lions, lazing about in the middle of the road and causing a traffic congestion, which unfortunately made photography rather difficult

Driving along the river bank, we saw Little Bee-eaters hunting

Hippos were seen lazing about in the shallow water, where the water lilies could also be seen in the early morning light

Next up, was a very lazy lion, clearly having recently eaten his fill and now just lying under a tree, occasionally opening one eye to look at us, but otherwise barely moving

After a stop for morning coffee, we started making our way back, stopping to photograph White-fronted Bee-eaters hunting

Getting back to the hotel just in time for brunch, we then had a few hours available to look through our morning’s photos and video. As usual, I tried culling as many as possible of the unwanted photos immediately, in order to leave me with a manageable number to finally go through and select my favourites.

In the afternoon, after high tea, we were back on the river. An African darter, sitting on a log against a dark background, gave us opportunity to experiment with low key photography, before flying off, giving us further opportunity to photograph it in flight

Elephants and hippos are always interesting to observe and photograph.

As the sun was getting low on the horizon, a Fish Eagle came to the water’s edge for a drink, giving a smaller bird quite the fright when it decided to take off again

With the setting sun behind them, a herd of elephants also came down to the water’s edge to drink, with a lazy crocodile looking on

We arrived back at the hotel just in time for a quick shower before dinner. After dinner it was back to downloading and culling photos and charging batteries. At this point my own battery also needed some charging and I decided to get an extra hour sleep, rather than writing my blog post.

Chobe, February 2024, Day 3

If you thought that a visit to Pangolin Photo Safaris is a relaxing holiday, you are in for a big surprise. On day 3 we were allowed to sleep in: coffee at 5:30, depart for a photographic activity on the river at 6:00am. We started off with a sighting of a Half-collared Kingfisher

This was followed by some Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, a Southern Red Bishop and a Malachite Kingfisher

Two otters popped their heads out, but we were too far and too slow to get any photos. Next up were a Coppery-tailed Coucal, a Goliath Heron, some Terns and Cormorants

No outing on the Chobe river is complete without crocodiles, but also don’t forget the Water Monitor lizard

My favourite, the African Fish Eagle, was seen in a tree, eating something, none of us able to figure out what exactly

A few others bird sightings followed: Squacco Heron and Open-billed Stork

What did the Egret say to the Buffalo? I guess only the dragonfly overheard, but he’s not telling.

On our way back for brunch, we saw a few Red Lechwe under the Botswana flag.

Brunch was followed by the usual camera battery charging, photos download and backup, an editing tutorial by Sabine and having to forego the planned afternoon nap. By 15:00 we were preparing to go back to the river for the afternoon session.

The afternoon started with excitement of watching an Egret having to repeatedly evade a Heron, which was trying to steal its lunch

We saw several kudu along the riverbank

However, the main focus of the afternoon, was elephants

By this time, it was almost dark and, while an impala was seen very nervously drinking at the water’s edge, carefully keeping an eye out for crocodiles, we had to rush to get back to our mooring before dark.

An excellent dinner was once again followed by downloading, culling, backup, editing and getting to bed way too late, but I just cannot help myself, I have to go through my day’s photos every evening to see what I managed to get.