Category: Travel

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 6 & 7: Mountain Passes, Rugged terrain and Severe Weather

After a large breakfast at A State of Grace guesthouse in Clanwilliam, we started our trip by filling up with diesel and then proceeded via Pakhuis pass and Hoek se Berg pass to the Biedouw valley

On a very cold and overcast day, the flowers were not open, but still provided a spectacular sight. I can just imagine how much more spectacular it must be on a sunny day with the flowers open.

We were too early to get coffee at the Biedouw Valley Farmstall, which only opens at 11:00 and decided instead, to proceed over the Kouberg Pass to Wupperthal for coffee at Lekkerbekkie Coffee Shop.

Since some social media posts had suggested that the Eselbank Pass might be closed due to recent flooding, we enquired in Wupperthal and were assured that the pass was open to 4×4 traffic. We decided to tackle this pass on our way to Mount Ceder. Although very narrow and certainly a major challenge if encountering traffic going in the other direction, this pass is actually not difficult to drive and does not require serious 4×4 skills, mainly just some common sense. Luckily we only encountered one other vehicle and even more luckily, this happened in a place where there was space for passing. The reward was spectacular scenery, better captured on video than photos (video to follow in a separate post).

A visit to the waterfall at Eselbank was a bit of a failure, since we could not find an actual viewpoint of the main waterfall and were unwilling to clamber over the rocks and risk a serious fall, especially in the windy conditions. After passing through Eselbank, we proceeded towards Mount Ceder passing through more ruggedly beautiful terrain in the Cederberg, including Grootrivier hoogte, stopping along the way to photograph some more flowers.

Google maps will tell you that the drive is 123km and should take approximately 2 hour 15 minutes, but that doesn’t take into account the terrain and roads. A more realistic estimate is probably about 4 hours for that distance.

We had a lovely cottage at Mount Ceder, overlooking a valley. Unfortunately it was overcast and my planned astrophotography didn’t materialise. The positive aspect was that we got a very good night’s sleep.

At breakfast the next morning, the staff at Mount Ceder, informed us that they expected severe weather over the next 24 hours, our planned hike in the mountains was cancelled and we were warned that anticipated flooding could see us stuck and unable to travel the next morning. We made a quick decision to change our plans, leave while we could and use the spare day for an impromptu visit to our children in Cape Town.

Returning to our cottage to pack up, we saw a beautiful rainbow over the valley, ending at our cottage.

After a very informative and interesting olive oil tasting, we had a cheese and olive platter for early lunch and then hit the road. Light rain already started falling while we were on the Blinkberg Pass.

As we reached the tar road, we started encountering the first of the severe weather. On the beautiful Gydo Pass, near Ceres, the rain was bucketing down.

Michells Pass was equally rain drenched

Arriving in Cape Town, we were again reminded of the Cape Town traffic, one of the major reasons we could not imagine living there again.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 5: Southward

We made an early start from Hondeklipbaai, driving on a dirt road still muddy and slippery from the previous day’s rain, stopping in Garies at the Garies Toeriste Stal, for coffee and toasted sandwiches, before heading on to Clanwilliam.

Arriving in Clanwilliam, we went for a stroll in the Ramskop Wildflower Garden. This had apparently become quite run down under Municipal management, but is being revived by local enthusiasts. We spent an enjoyable hour walking around here, taking some photos and video.

Then it was on to Graafwater, where we had a thoroughly enjoyable visit and lunch with friends.

Carrying on with my theme of photographing church buildings, I walked around the church, looking for a good angle for a photo, eventually finding one with a sunburst.

Late afternoon, we returned to Clanwilliam to check in at our accommodation, where we were just in time to see the beautiful sunset over Clanwilliam dam, from the guesthouse pool deck.

After dark, we returned to Graafwater, to continue where we left off our visit with friends and to photograph the Milky Way over the church.

Returning to Clanwilliam, I just had to take another Milky Way shot over the Clanwilliam dam, even though a few clouds were starting to appear.

Another late night, this time with Liana deciding to postpone her video downloading and editing for a day in order to get some rest.

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Flowers, Stars and More: Day 4: Stars, at last

Day 4 arrived, cold, dreary, overcast, not what we had been hoping for, but true to the weather forecast, which had been accurate for once. We decided, nonetheless, to take the drive to the Skilpad section of Namaqua National Park. The locals in Hondeklipbaai advised us to take the detour, returning to the N7 the way we had come, due to road conditions.

We stopped in Kamieskroon to get fuel for the car and ourselves. Entering Kamieskroon, we saw a beautiful little church.

In Kamieskroon, I also saw a street carrying my name, but quite sure not named after me or any relation.

After fuelling the car, we drove towards the National Park, stopping along the way for breakfast at Die Murasie

Once in the Park, we decided to forego the planned hike, since it had started raining and we did not want to get drenched. Instead, we drove the two circle routes in the Park, one of which is new and labelled a 4×4 route, but really a very easily driveable route.

As expected, in the rain, most of the flowers were hiding their faces. However, this did not really detract too much from the spectacle and we still had a really good time.

Near the end of the 4×4 loop, we saw a few Springbok in a field of flowers, a very special sight.

Making our way back to Hondeklipbaai, we were quite pleased with ourselves about the lovely day we had and the fact that we would be able to get to bed early, but this was not to be. About 20km before our destination, we encountered a quartet of elderly people struggling to change a flat tyre. By the time we had finished assisting them, not only were we rain drenched, which we had avoided in the Park, but also covered in mud.

Eventually arriving at out accommodation at Dogstone Cottage, we took a quick shower and then went to the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant for an early supper, which turned out to be an excellent choice. The reception was very friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the food excellent. Liana had a marrow bone starter and I had prawns. For mains she had lobster and I had pan fried snoek and sweet potato.

Exiting the restaurant, we were just in time to catch the sunset, the clouds starting to clear.

With the clouds rapidly clearing, I was able to grab a few Milky Way photos as well.

Tomorrow we turn back south, heading towards Clanwilliam.

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Flowers, Stars & More : Day 3 : Going North

Leaving Yzerfontein, we made a quick stop at Weskus Padstal to fill our travel mugs with good coffee. The breakfast smells were tempting, but we had “padkos” of cheese and tomato sandwiches and “braaiwors” in the car, so resisted the temptation.

We headed north along the coast, passing through Velddrif and Dwarskersbos, turning inland at Elandsbaai, towards Graafwater. Unfortunately, driving into the sun, combined with the number of insects committing suicide against the windscreen, resulted in less than perfect dashcam footage.

Just before Graafwater, Liana pointed out a somewhat rundown house, surrounded by wildflowers, stating that I am always looking for suitable focus point in my photos and this might make a good subject.

From Graafwater, a dirt road took us back towards the N7, with a quick stop to photograph a railway line.

Then it was on to Maskam Guest Farm outside Vanrhynsdorp, where we were able to explore their flower route and grab a toasted sandwich and Coke for a light lunch.

Interestingly, some of the flowers at Maskam Guest Farm appear to be planted in rows, the result of the flowers spontaneously growing in a rooibos tea plantation, between the rows of rooibos tea plants.

From here it was back to theN7, past Vanrhynsdorp, along the Knersvlakte, apparently so named due to the sound the oxwagens’ wheels made on the stones, past Garies, where we turned back towards the coast.

The number and variety of flowers along the way were truly impressive.

Approaching Hondeklipbaai, we suddenly encountered dark clouds, arriving in town in midwinter after having spent the day in bright sunshine and summery temperatures.

Our accommodation at Dogstone Cottage was very welcoming. Dinner was an excellent seafood platter at Dop en Kreef restaurant.

We ended the day, hoping that the weather would play along on Day 4 and allow us to see the impressive flowers in the Skilpad section of the Namaqua National Park.

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Flowers, Stars & More: Day 1: Roadtripping Gqeberha to Lentelus farmstay

The day started badly, requiring a stop at the local Toyota garage to get the Hilux’s spare wheel unstuck, a problem discovered the previous evening, when wanting to check that the spare was properly inflated. After nearly 40 minute delay, we got going, only to get stuck behind an extra heavy vehicle, transporting a blade for a wind power generator.

After eventually being let past, we got to Steytlerville, anticipating brunch at The Verandah Coffee Shop, combined with a visit to the motor museum, only to find a closed door with no reaction when we rang the bell. We went on to the Royal Hotel, for a very late brunch or rather early lunch.

After being assured that there was always someone at the motor museum, we returned there and, upon searching around the back, found Michelle, who said she was short staffed due to her husband feeling ill, therefor having to run the restaurant and museum alone for the day. She gave us an informative tour of the museum and also informed us about their wildlife rehabilitation program. The highlight of the museum is the beautifully restored Ford GT 40.

From here, we proceeded past Willowmore to Oudtshoorn, stopping at De Rust for diesel and coffee. A surprise at the Caltex garage, was an artwork by Freek Steenberg, who uses wood and other natural materials, collected from the fields on and around his farm, for his art.

The scenery through the Klein Karoo is always special, but on this trip made even more so by the rain clouds gathering and sun highlights.

A quick stop at De Hoop, to photograph the beautiful church, built in 1909 and currently apparently for sale. I have often, driving past, promised myself that, one day, I would stop to photograph it and this seemed like a good day to fulfill that promise.

Arriving at Lentelus farmstay, we quickly unpacked and had supper, before downloading and editing the day’s photos and video.

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Late afternoon at Cape Recife Lighthouse and Blue Supermoon

On 19 August 2024 we had a blue moon and supermoon occuring simultaneously, normally a rare occurrence, but this the second within a 12 month period.

A supermoon occurs when the full moon is closer than usual to earth, resulting in the moon appearing larger than normal.

A blue moon can be either a second full moon within a calendar month or the third of four full moons in a given season, since there are normally only three full moons in a season.

Since moon rise would be occurring within minutes of sunset, I decided that this would be a good occasion to visit Cape Recife Lighthouse for a few photos.

The sunset was beautiful and I managed to get a sunburst photo over the lighthouse, while a few African Black Oystercatchers were enjoying the last light on the beach.

Soon the moon started rising over the sea.

With the sky still tinted pink and orange, the moon completed the picture beautifully.

As darkness set in, the moon appeared progressively brighter.

Finally, all that was visible, was the supermoon.

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Chobe 2024: links

Click on the links below to be taken to the relevant day’s post

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

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Chobe, February 2024, Day 7

All too soon, our last day at Pangolin Chobe Hotel arrived. We had one last early morning excursion on the river. The impalas seemed frisky this morning

White-breasted cormorants gave a flying display, taking off one at a time

A pair of African fish eagles were regally surveying their kingdom from their perch high above the river

We stopped at Elephant bay for our morning coffee, sharing the space with Impala, Crocodiles, and elephants

A Pied kingfisher gave a hovering display, which I tried to photograph at slow shutter speed, more practice needed

By this time we had to rush back to the hotel in order to catch our flights. Along the way, someone on the boat spotted a baby hippo and we had to make a quick U-turn to grab a few last minute photos. Mamma hippo didn’t seem too impressed with us.

At the airport, we were told that our flight was delayed by 30-40 minutes, which ended up being 90 minutes. While waiting, we started chatting to two brothers who had also been on our flight coming to Chobe. This turned out to be a very interesting and enlightening chat and their photography websites are certainly worth a visit. Dave does wildlife, while Peter is a master at black and white landscape photography.

Back home, lots of editing work awaited us, especially for Liana with her videos. A few quick ones below, with more to follow

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Chobe 2024, Day 6

On our last full day, we once again had an early start, leaving the hotel at 5:30. We entered the park by a different route to the previous times. First stopping by a group of zebra for a few photos, we continued on to a watering hole, where we saw a Kori bustard, browsing in the tall grass, with beautiful golden light from the rising sun.

A long, sandy road followed, where the main attraction was a couple of squirrels in a tree stump, who kept us entertained for a while

We had heard the previous day that there were lions around a giraffe kill and went in search. Most of the lions had clearly already eaten their fill and departed. From the smell, it was clear that this was no fresh kill, but a lioness and her cubs were still hanging around, while all around, vultures were patiently waiting in the trees

After a coffee stop, I got to practice some more lilac-breasted roller shots. One day I will get the perfect one…

A chameleon showed unexpected speed and we just managed to grab a few quick shots before it disappeared into the vegetation

The afternoon session on the river started with a search for Jacanas. Along the way we also found another Malachite kingfisher

I can never get enough of the African fish eagles, such impressive birds

A Woodland kingfisher was a pleasant surprise

Red-billed oxpeckers were playing on the buffaloes

Once again, the Chobe sunset delivered, with elephants, crocodiles and hippos all playing their part

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Chobe, February 2024, Day 5

Another day on which we could get an extra half hour sleep, with coffee at 5:30 and a 6:00am departure to the river.

On the boat, cameras mounted and everything ready (photo credit Tom Williams), we first went in search of the birds in the reeds.

We were greeted by a Malachite Kingfisher and multiple Blue-cheeked bee-eaters.

Next up, African Jacanas walking on the water lilies

Terns were giving a flying display

A Pygmy Goose was sitting on a tree stump, appearing to be having a discussion with an African Darter

A Red-billed oxpecker was doing its thing on a buffalo’s nose

Just to remind us that this was indeed World Hippo Day, a hippo decided to photobomb the elephants

In the afternoon we saw some more bee-eaters hunting

An African Darter was struggling with a fish it had caught

Elephants were clearly feeling the heat and cooling off in the river

The sunset was once again a spectacular affair

The dust kicked up by the elephants, combined with the light from the setting sun, created some interesting effects

The day ended with another excellent supper created by chef Robson and his team, enjoyed in the company of strangers from across the world who had, by now, become friends, sharing their day’s experiences.