Tag: Travel

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Tanzania 2023 : Part 3 : Ngorongoro Crater

Post updated with some video links.

Part 1 here

Part 2 here

From Kigoma, it was another trip to Dar es Salaam for an overnight. The next morning we flew to Lake Manyara Airport, followed by a road transfer to The Highlands Lodge in Ngorongoro conservation area.

Along the way we got our first, breathtaking view of the Ngorongoro Crater.

Driving along the crater edge, we saw some Olive baboons. We also stopped for lunch and a hike up to the edge of Olmoti Crater. Along the way to the lodge we drove past several Masai villages.

Since we only had one full day in the Ngorongoro area, due to flight schedule changes, we decided to make the most of it and spend the full day exploring the crater. Thus it was a 06:00 start, seeing the sunrise as we descend into the crater.

The number of animals in the crater is quite impressive. It is almost impossible to capture the sheer magnificence of the experience on photos.

Video by Liana Steenkamp

We were entertained by two rhino’s

A rich birdlife is also to be seen in the crater. I was lucky to spot a malachite kingfisher while we were having breakfast. Later, during our lunch, a black kite tried its best to steal the food from our plates. Numerous egrets were to be seen all over.

The lions also didn’t disappoint, although they were clearly suffering in the midday heat

Some video of the lion cubs, by Liana Steenkamp

On our way out we got to see a beautiful serval

The next morning it was off back to Dar es Salaam for a short stopover before a middle of the night flight back home. Takeoff from Lake Manyara airport is quite an interesting experience.

Final reflections: Tanzania is a beautiful and very welcoming country, the people friendly and always helpful. The organisational skills of the ground staff at the small airports is amazing.

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Tanzania 2023 Part 2: Mahale Mountains National Park: Chimpanzee Trekking

Part 1 here

After departing Pemba, we had to spend a day in Dar es Salaam, waiting for a flight to Kigoma. From Kigoma it was a 5 hour road trip over pretty bad roads, including a ferry crossing, to get to Mahale Mountains National Park. Once in the park, an hour boat trip on Lake Tanganyika took us to Mbali Mbali Mahale lodge, a truly magical place.

After breakfast the next morning, we went chimpanzee trekking with our guide, Sixtus. Hiking in the forest was and interesting experience. The terrain was not too difficult, but the heat and humidity soon got to us. After an hour we were completely drenched, my clothes looking as if I had been swimming with them. Eventually, after about two hours, we found two large male chimpanzees resting in a tree. Sixtus ensured us that we just had to wait a while and they would come down. An hour later, still waiting, I started to question whether he knew what he was talking about, but not too long after that he was proven right. We were thoroughly entertained by Christmas and Teddy.

Photographing the chimpanzees proved to be quite a challenge due to the light conditions in the forest, with spots of very bright sunlight and areas of deep shadow.

The planned afternoon boat cruise on the lake got cancelled due to a thunderstorm which came through and we were told that the lodge would be closing for the rainy season within the next few days. Being exhausted from the morning hike, we did not really mind and spent the afternoon lazing about.

Next morning we went chimpanzee trekking again.

We soon found a large group, including several youngsters who were quite playful, but then had to follow them as they crossed through dense forest from one trail to the next. Once there, we could sit down and enjoy their antics, spending nearly an hour with them.

Video by Liana: sound on for full appreciation

Once again, that afternoon, a thunderstorm came through, leading to cancellation of the boat cruise on the lake. Fortunately the boat transfers to and from the lodge gave us a decent experience of the world’s longest and second largest (by volume) lake.

Another 5 hour road trip saw us back in Kigoma the next afternoon. From our hotel we saw the fishing boats going out on the lake for the night. The next morning, while having breakfast, we watched them returning, before going to visit the Livingstone museum in Kigoma.

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    Tanzania 2023: Part 1: Pemba Island Diving

    At last the long anticipated family tropical island holiday arrived. Despite relatively short distances and flight times involved, travel to Zanzibar and Pemba Island from South Africa has become a bit of a challenge. We left home Friday 10 February at around 10:30 and finally arrived at The Aiyana on Pemba Island around 14:00 on Saturday, having had a long layover in Johannesburg, arriving in Dar es Salaam at around 02:00 with about 3 hours sleep in Dar es Salaam Serena Hotel. From Dar es Salaam to Pemba we flew in a Cessna Grand Caravan, a plane which we would eventually spend a lot of time in over the course of the Tanzania trip.

    Sunday morning saw us ready to go diving with Afro Divers. After a light breakfast of fruit, croissants and coffee, we were picked up from The Aiyana at 08:00 and transported to the dive centre, where we were welcomed by Michael and his crew and kitted out. A short boat trip got us to our first dive site and for some of the family members who don’t scuba, to a lovely site for snorkelling. The diving off Pemba Island is truly magnificent: warm water, unspoilt coral reefs, easy entry with gradual descents along the walls. This is about as relaxing as diving can get.

    More diving was to follow for the next few days.

    The octopuses and their ability to camouflage themselves by rapidly changing their appearance according to the surroundings never cease to amaze me.

    Equally well camouflaged amongst the corals are the leaf scorpionfish.

    Some beautiful moray eels also poked their heads out.

    We took a day off from diving to explore some other attractions on Pemba Island. A visit to the mangroves was followed by lunch in a small local restaurant in Makangale town and an afternoon boat ride to the sandbank north of the island. These were all organised by Sija of Pemba Tours

    Finally some more diving to end off the first part of our trip.

    Part 2 : Mahale Mountains National Park : Chimpanzee trekking here

    Part 3 : Ngorongoro Crater here

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    Daytrip to Addo Elephant National Park: 19 November 2022

    One of the advantages of living in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) is that it is just 40 minutes’ drive from our front door to the gate of Addo. We decided to do a day trip and picnic at Addo.

    We spent more than an hour watching the elephants at Marion Baree Waterhole. One group was standing in and around the waterhole, with another group some distance away and a few lone elephants occasionally arriving and others departing.

    There was constant interaction between the elephants around, with a few playful tussles.

    One tussle appeared to be a little more serious, with one elephant appearing to be trying to prevent another one from getting to the water.

    Some warthogs also tried to get to the water, but kept getting chased by the one of the elephants…

    …who then also got chased by a new arrival

    On our way home, a lone elephant to see us off

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 4): Mashatu

    Part 1: Nata and Maun

    Part 2: Pangolin Voyager Houseboat

    Part 3: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

    After a refreshing overnight stop at Cresta Marang Gardens Francistown, we had an early morning departure for Mashatu. Parking at Limpopo Valley airfield, we were fetched by our friendly guide for the duration, Lovemore (Lovies), who took us to our accomodation at Tuli Safari Lodge Mashatu

    After settling into our very comfortable tented room, we went for high tea, followed by a game drive with Lovies and our tracker, Pontsho, seeing some very lazy lionesses with their young,

    followed by another spectacular sunset, this time spent with some giraffe.

    We were treated to a bush dinner with Tuli Safari Lodge’s “moving tables”.

    The next morning was another early morning start with a full day of morning and afternoon game drives, including the leopard sighting I had been hoping for

    For our last morning at Mashatu, we had booked a session in the photographic hide, where we had the most amazing experience, with two hyenas coming to play in the water hole. They eventually came right up to the hide and seemed quite curious about our camera equipment.

    Be sure to watch Liana’s video in full size on YouTube by clicking the “Watch on YouTube” button

    Some more photos from the hide

    On our way back from the hide to the lodge, another surprise awaited us

    By now we were utterly exhausted and chose to forego the last evening’s game drive in favour of some rest, before tackling the long road home the next day.

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 3): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

    Part 1 here

    Part 2 here

    After arriving at the hotel and settling into our rooms, Grant spent some time giving those of us who wanted some photo editing tips. I found this tremendously helpful and any editing mistakes you spot in my photos are purely due to my inexperience, certainly not his lack of teaching.

    After tea, it was time for a game drive in Chobe National Park

    Following the game drive, the group decided unanimously that we wanted to swop the next morning’s game drive for another photo boat excursion. The sightings from the boats seemed to be better and on the boats one could avoid the heat and dust encountered on the game drive vehicles.

    A long time spent trying to photograph Carmine bee-eaters the next morning mainly taught me that I need a lot more practice with the small, fast moving birds.

    Liana’s video gives an idea of the quick and unpredictable movements of the bee-eaters.

    The afternoon brought elephants against a lovely sunset

    The last morning at Pangolin for myself and Liana (we had to depart early the next morning and thus miss the last excursion), gave us more hippos, crocodiles, birds and a tigertail dragonfly. Thanks to Grant for showing me how to get rid of that irritating blade of grass over the croc’s mouth.

    The elephants of Chobe never failed to keep us entertained and Liana had more than enough material for a few elephant videos (make sure you have sound on for the videos)

    On our last afternoon we thought some elephants might join us in the photo boat,

    spent some more time with the elephants, skimmers and an Openbill stork,

    and watched another spectacular sunset with a bromance between two elephants, observed by us and some buffalo.

    A spectacular end to a spectacular 6 days with Pangolin and Grant Atkinson. The next morning, while the rest of the group went on one last photo excusion, we departed for Francistown, on our way to Mashatu.

    Part 4: Mashatu

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 2): Pangolin Photo Safaris: Pangoling Voyager Houseboat

    Part 1 here

    We arrived in Kasane, at Pangolin Photo Safaris, the main focus of our Botswana trip, keen for a learning experience and wow, did we learn a lot here! Upon arrival, we met our photo host for the 6 days, Grant Atkinson, who ensured that we had an amazing experience here. We were also very lucky to be with a really pleasant group of people for the duration, who all contributed to making this a truly memorable experience.

    The first 3 days were spent on the Pangolin houseboat, which required us to enter Namibia, even though the only time we set foot on land in Namibia was for the visit to the Immigration Office.

    We just had time to settle in to our very comfortable accommodation on the houseboat before going on our first excursion on the Pangolin photo boats, which are brilliantly designed to give 8 photographers equal opportunity to get great shots and with very knowledgeable guides positioning the boats for the best shots.

    Arriving back at the houseboat after our first afternoon excursion, we settled into our rhythm for the next 6 days, of downloading, sorting and backing up photos and video and charging camera batteries in order to be ready for the next session.

    We also had to get used to the mealtime schedule being arranged around photographic excursions: early morning coffee and a rusk or light breakfast, brunch at 11:00 after returning from the morning session, high tea around 15:00 before the late afternoon photographic excursion and supper around 19:00 after returning. Sleep time was limited by the need to get the cameras ready for the next morning.

    Next morning we greeted the sunrise on the water.

    Ample birdlife was to be seen all around us as well as some beautiful water lillies.

    The afternoon brought more elephants and a suggestion from Grant to try some high key photography, which openend my eyes to new possibilities.

    Once again the birdlife was not to be forgotten

    The next morning there were more hippos at sunrise,

    followed by more birdlife

    We were amused by the antics of two water monitors, trying to steal a crocodile’s eggs

    The afternoon brought an elephant crossing the river, a hippo upset at us for getting too close and some baboon antics,

    but the biggest surprise of all, was a Fish Eagle catching a huge catfish in the shallow water right in front of us. A long fight ensued, with the Fish Eagle trying to drag the struggling fish away from the water, while also being harassed by lapwings. After about 15 minutes, it was eventually able to settle down to its hard earned meal.

    The next morning brought another hunt, this one less successful

    Although the lions were looking hungry, the young ones still remained playful. I do hope the pride found some food later on.

    This ended our 3 days on the houseboat. After brunch we departed for the hotel, first having to go through Immigration in order to officially exit Namibia and enter Botswana again.

    Part 3: Pangolin Chobe Hotel

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    Botswana 2022 (Part 1 Nata and Maun)

    Updated with some video links

    After 3 days of hard driving, totalling over 1800 km, we eventually reached Nata Lodge.

    Visiting Nata Bird Sanctuary, we knew not to expect too much bird life so late in the dry season, but encountered the first of many spectacular sunsets which we were to see during our trip.

    After two days at Nata, recovering from our long drive, it was on to Leopard Plains, where we were given a very friendly reception in this lovely setting.

    Along the way, we had an interesting sighting of elephants, that had removed a heavy concrete slab, covering a fresh water pipeline next to the main road, transporting clean water from a water treatment plant to neighbouring villages. Apparently the elephants prefer this clean water to that which they could obtain in the nearby Boteti river.

    While at Leopard Plains, we did a guided daytrip to Makgadigadi Pans National Park, encountering large numbers of zebra, wildebeest, elephants and pelicans in the Boteti riverbed and quite a few vultures around.

    Some video from Makgadigadi on Liana’s YouTube channel

    The next morning we did an early morning game drive on the Leopard Plains farm, unfortunately did not get to see any leopard, but saw some really good looking kudu

    From here it was on to Maun, where we had the best coffee in Botswana at Dusty Donkey Cafe.

    Boteti Tented Safari Lodge near Maun, was a pretty mixed experience. We did have a lovely sunset mokoro cruise on the river on our first afternoon.

    The next two days were spent on excursions: a mokoro trip on the Delta and a day trip to Moremi, where we saw some very sleepy lions, suffering in the 40oC daytime heat.

    Liana’s Moremi video link

    This effectively concluded the first part of our trip. We departed Maun for Kasane, with an overnight stop at Eselbe Camp, an interesting, rustic camp, where we could unfortunately not go canoeing on the Nata river, due to presence of hippo in the river close to the camp. We did get a very nice fillet steak supper, prepared by the owner, Rupert and a good night’s rest in comfortable lodging.

    Part 2: Pangolin Voyager Houseboat