Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 3

Link to Part 1

Link to Part 2

From Hondeklipbaai, we proceeded north via Koingnaas, Kleinsee and Port Nolloth, to Sendelingsdrift, on the South African side of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. This is harsh yet remarkably beautiful landscape, with a mixture of some good and some really bad gravel roads and a few sections of surprisingly good tar road.

After our first night in the Richtersveld, spent camping at Potjiespram, where goats and monkeys shared our campsite, we set off for Kokerboomkloof. The journey took us through some of the most spectacular desert scenery, with the stark and rugged landscape unfolding around us as we made our way to the campsite.

I had been looking forward to the opportunity to do some landscape astrophotography at Kokerboomkloof for a long time, so I was understandably disappointed to arrive to heavily overcast skies. Fortunately, as the evening progressed, gaps gradually began to appear in the cloud cover, offering glimpses of the night sky. Eventually, I was able to capture a few really rewarding images.

The next morning, having had very little sleep after my nocturnal photographic activities, it was time to pack up and continue to Tatasberg. There, we settled into log cabins that felt like five-star luxury after the rugged and very basic campsites of the previous two nights.

Although it was still spring, the heat in the Richtersveld was already becoming quite oppressive, and we greatly enjoyed the opportunity to cool off with a swim in the Orange River at Tatasberg. My main photographic objective here was to capture a panoramic image of the Milky Way stretching over the river. I eventually succeeded, although the experience taught me several valuable lessons, and I believe I can further improve on the result if I get another opportunity.

The Richtersveld remains, in my mind, one of the most magical places I have ever visited. Its incredible natural beauty lies in the starkness of the landscape, and in the extraordinary contrast between the arid desert and the life-giving Orange River that flows through it. It can be a playing field for men and their 4x4s, but it is also a place where you can simply sit quietly, take in the magnificent surroundings, and marvel at the wonder of God’s creation.

For a wonderful visual impression of this remarkable place, have a look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

Road tripping: Cederberg, Richtersveld & West Coast : Part 2

Link to Part 1 here

Next, we set off for Gannabos, near Nieuwoudtville. The route took us over the Eselbank Pass, a beautiful but challenging drive for which a 4×4 is recommended. Along the way lies the Eselbank Waterfall, with two viewing points. The better of the two is not signposted, but fortunately it was clearly indicated on our Tracks4Africa GPS map, allowing us to find our way to it.

To better appreciate the terrain, look at Liana’s video on YouTube.

The route passed through the rooibos tea plantations between the villages of Eselbank and Wupperthal, before continuing through the Biedouw Valley, renowned for its spectacular annual display of wildflowers. Sadly, this year the season had arrived early and been unusually brief, and we encountered only a few scattered flowers.

I did get to see some more ruins, surrounded by flowers.

Our campsites at Gannabos guest farm were luxurious, with each site having its own very spacious ablution facility and kitchenette area.

Gannabos also boasts the largest quiver tree forest in the world, which we visited for sundowners.

An area closer to our campsite gave me access to do some landscape astrophotography.

With new knowledge and ideas gained from this outing, I would like to return here to improve on these.

After two lovely days at Gannabos, it was time to move on to Hondeklipbaai, where we were booked to spend the night. En route, we came across yet another lovely old ruin.

Our friends were greatly relieved to discover that the accommodation we had booked was considerably better than its name, Honne Pondokkies (literally, “Dog Shacks”), might suggest. As on our previous visit, supper at the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant did not disappoint. Unfortunately, the heavily overcast conditions put paid to my plans for some astrophotography on the beach and around the lighthouse. I did, however, manage to capture a few late-afternoon images before the clouds rolled in.

Interrupted Camping Trip: some Astrophotography

Our original plan was to go camping at Anysberg Nature Reserve from 13 to 16 June. However, due to the severe weather over the previous two months and a notice on their website stating that the reserve would be closed until 10 June for repairs and maintenance, we phoned them on 5 June to confirm whether they would be open. We were told that they would probably remain closed for another two weeks, although we would receive an update during the following week. Unwilling to take any chances, we decided to look for an alternative destination. The group eventually agreed on Warmwaterberg Spa.

Unfortunately, I developed a nasty intestinal infection just two days before our departure. On the morning we were due to leave, I felt that I was over the worst of it and starting to improve, so I decided to join the trip anyway.

We arrived in the late afternoon and quickly set up camp in the beautiful campsite. After a relaxed and enjoyable braai, I headed out to find good spots for photographing the stars. It was a perfect, cloudless night, and I managed to capture a few lovely photos.

The next morning we enjoyed lounging in the warm mineral pools, followed by a refreshing plunge into the cold pool — a dramatic contrast from approximately 40 °C to 16 °C.

That evening the sky was overcast, ruling out any chance of astrophotography. Unfortunately, my intestinal infection flared up again, forcing us to cut the trip short and head home early the following morning. The drive back took us through stunning landscapes, but I was in no condition to take photographs. I will definitely have to return another time.

Stars, a Kingfisher, Owls, Fossils and Dogs

After our previous stay at Ironstone Cottage outside Graaff Reinet, during which overcast and rainy conditions ruined any chance of astrophotography, I had decided to return and now the time had come.

Naturally, we arrived in Graff Reinet to overcast conditions, but at least with the weather forecast promising better conditions for the next day and, most importantly, evening. In the meantime, I took out my camera and started looking around for subjects to photograph and also scouting possible photos for the next night. A nearby ruin of a stone cottage held much promise.

A prickly pear plant also looked interesting.

We had a surprise visit from a Brown Hooded Kingfisher.

The next morning, we took a drive out to Nieu-Bethesda to visit the famous Owl House. Arriving in Nieu-Bethesda just before 9am, it initially seemed like a ghost town, with not a person in sight. We stopped to photograph the church.

By this time, we realised that we were simply a bit early and businesses started opening up. The visit to the Owl House was interesting, but an unexpected pleasant surprise was the visit to Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre, which included a guided walk, with a very well informed guide, to view some fossils still embedded in the river bed.

Before leaving Nieu-Bethesda, we purchased a cement owl from the daughter of Koos Malgas, the man who had worked closely with Helen Martins at the Owl House, manufactured by his grandson.

Back at Ironstone Cottage, we saw that the skies had started clearing and the evening turned out perfect for astrophotography

The next day saw us traveling north, to Douglas, for a brief family visit and to collect two puppies for friends. That evening, staying with family on their farm on the Vaal river, provided further opportunity to photograph the stars, despite the presence of a few clouds.

An early morning start, saw us collecting the puppies in town for the long drive home.

Road tripping the Northern Cape : Day 7 : Resting at Khamkirri

This was Good Friday and we spent a peaceful day at Khamkirri, going for an early morning 5km nature walk, broken halfway by a stop for Bible reading and contemplation. 

Getting back, we had a late brunch or rather early lunch, after which we lazed around and I finally managed to start catching up with my photo editing and blog writing.

That evening was my first (and, as it later turned out last) real opportunity on the trip to do some astro photography and I managed to get a few pleasing shots by walking a few hundred meters away from the campsite.

Flowers, Stars & More: The missing videos

So, at last, after a hectic few days back at home, Liana managed to get around to editing her videos, so here are the videos for Day 5, Day 6 and a lovely video she made using my astro photos from this and previous trips.

Day 5 blog post here

And the video for Day 5:

Day 6 blog post here

And the video for Day 6:

And the astrophotography video:

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And also consider subscribing to Liana’s YouTube channel by clicking the link and subscribing in the YouTube page which will open.

Flowers, Stars & More: Day 5: Southward

We made an early start from Hondeklipbaai, driving on a dirt road still muddy and slippery from the previous day’s rain, stopping in Garies at the Garies Toeriste Stal, for coffee and toasted sandwiches, before heading on to Clanwilliam.

Arriving in Clanwilliam, we went for a stroll in the Ramskop Wildflower Garden. This had apparently become quite run down under Municipal management, but is being revived by local enthusiasts. We spent an enjoyable hour walking around here, taking some photos and video.

Then it was on to Graafwater, where we had a thoroughly enjoyable visit and lunch with friends.

Carrying on with my theme of photographing church buildings, I walked around the church, looking for a good angle for a photo, eventually finding one with a sunburst.

Late afternoon, we returned to Clanwilliam to check in at our accommodation, where we were just in time to see the beautiful sunset over Clanwilliam dam, from the guesthouse pool deck.

After dark, we returned to Graafwater, to continue where we left off our visit with friends and to photograph the Milky Way over the church.

Returning to Clanwilliam, I just had to take another Milky Way shot over the Clanwilliam dam, even though a few clouds were starting to appear.

Another late night, this time with Liana deciding to postpone her video downloading and editing for a day in order to get some rest.

Flowers, Stars and More: Day 4: Stars, at last

Day 4 arrived, cold, dreary, overcast, not what we had been hoping for, but true to the weather forecast, which had been accurate for once. We decided, nonetheless, to take the drive to the Skilpad section of Namaqua National Park. The locals in Hondeklipbaai advised us to take the detour, returning to the N7 the way we had come, due to road conditions.

We stopped in Kamieskroon to get fuel for the car and ourselves. Entering Kamieskroon, we saw a beautiful little church.

In Kamieskroon, I also saw a street carrying my name, but quite sure not named after me or any relation.

After fuelling the car, we drove towards the National Park, stopping along the way for breakfast at Die Murasie

Once in the Park, we decided to forego the planned hike, since it had started raining and we did not want to get drenched. Instead, we drove the two circle routes in the Park, one of which is new and labelled a 4×4 route, but really a very easily driveable route.

As expected, in the rain, most of the flowers were hiding their faces. However, this did not really detract too much from the spectacle and we still had a really good time.

Near the end of the 4×4 loop, we saw a few Springbok in a field of flowers, a very special sight.

Making our way back to Hondeklipbaai, we were quite pleased with ourselves about the lovely day we had and the fact that we would be able to get to bed early, but this was not to be. About 20km before our destination, we encountered a quartet of elderly people struggling to change a flat tyre. By the time we had finished assisting them, not only were we rain drenched, which we had avoided in the Park, but also covered in mud.

Eventually arriving at out accommodation at Dogstone Cottage, we took a quick shower and then went to the Rooi Spinnekop Restaurant for an early supper, which turned out to be an excellent choice. The reception was very friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the food excellent. Liana had a marrow bone starter and I had prawns. For mains she had lobster and I had pan fried snoek and sweet potato.

Exiting the restaurant, we were just in time to catch the sunset, the clouds starting to clear.

With the clouds rapidly clearing, I was able to grab a few Milky Way photos as well.

Tomorrow we turn back south, heading towards Clanwilliam.

Road Trip through the Little Karoo

Along the P1661 between Calitzdorp and Van Wyksdorp, a magnificently scenic route, possible to drive with a normal car in perfect weather, but best done with a higher clearance vehicle. The Rooiberg Pass and Assegaaibosch Pass lie along this route.

Rooiberg Lodge on the P1661

A great place for astrophotography

Playing around with some more dramatic editing techniques.

The R62 near Montagu